Hedgehog Basics: Daily Care

You will need to attend to your hedgehog's needs on a daily basis. 

Here are some basic suggestions:

DAILY:

Scoop the litter box
Fill the food dish
Provide fresh water
Make sure any mess such as spilled food etc. is cleaned out of the shavings
Clean off any messy toys
Love your pet

WEEKLY:

Clean the cage and put fresh, clean shavings on the floor. Soap and water will clean most items, but if you use any chemicals, be sure to rinse the cleaned items thoroughly. Be sure to wash the water bottle inside and out.

Hedgehog Care

After ages of research, I finally was able to create a whole information post about pet hedgehogs. Enjoy, everyone!

The pet or domesticated hedgehog, commonly referred to as the African Pygmy Hedgehog is an exceptional animals that is easy to care for and friendly if properly socialized. Not a wild species, the pet hedgehog is a hybrid of  two African species (Atelerix algirus) and (A. albiventris). Hedgehogs are classified as insectivorous and in the wild spend most of their time searching for food. In captivity, they prove to be curious animals who spend an abundance of time exploring their environment.

Housing

House your hedgehog in a large glass or plastic terrarium, or a tub type guinea pig cage. Choose a cage with smooth walls that are high enough to prevent the animal from climbing out. Wire bottomed cages should be avoided as they allow their feet and legs to slip through spaces between wires, causing injury. The cage must have ample floor space to encourage movement and prevent obesity in your little friend. Keep the cage in a warm room. A good range of temperature for a hedgehog is 72-85 degrees Fahrenheit. Use a heater, such as a stick on “under tank heater” available in the reptile department of most pet shops, on the cage in cool climates and cold months.  Cleaning the enclosure on a weekly basis helps control unwanted odors, making it a good pet to house indoors.

Options for Housing Your Hedgehog:

There is some debate on ideal housing options for pet hedgehogs, but for any hedgehog cage, the most important considerations are size, safety, ventilation, and ease of cleaning. There are pros and cons for different types of cages, and it is important to find a cage that meets the unique requirements of hedgehogs as well as fitting your budget and preferences.

Size 
Hedgehogs in the wild usually cover a lot of ground in their search for food. Pet hedgehogs need lots of room to move about too. Two square feet (e.g. 1 foot by 2 feet) is sometime quoted as the minimum floor space for a hedgehog, but this should be considered an absolute bare minimum, and only used if you have a wheel and give your hedgehog ample time to roam around outside the cage for exercise. It would be much better to aim for a minimum of about four square feet (e.g. 2 feet by 2 feet).

Safety 
A hedgehog cage needs to have a solid floor, so avoid any cages with wire or wire mesh flooring (hedgehogs may catch and injure their legs or feet on wire floors). Cages should not have any sharp edges or spaces in which a hedgehog could get his or her head stuck. The cage must also be secure to prevent escapes.

Ventilation 
Good ventilation is necessary to keep humidity levels down and to prevent ammonia (from urine) and odor from building up in the cage. Wire cages offer the best ventilation.

Ease of Cleaning 
This one is fairly self-explanaorty, but do not underestimate its importance. Your hedgehog's cage will need frequent cleaning, and a large, heavy or awkward cage will make this chore very unpleasant.

Wire Cages 
Many owners use wire cages since they are quite readily available and these have the the advantage of good ventilation. In addition, they are usually pretty lightweight and easy to clean. However, few are made specifically for hedgehogs so you need to be very particular when choosing a cage. Avoid any cages with wire flooring (or if absolutely necessary, cover the wire with wood, plastic, or a Vellux blanket cut to fit securely). Additionally, cages large enough for hedgehogs might have wire spacing that is too large for safely housing hedgehogs (look for ferret or rabbit cages with spacing of 1 inch or less). There are a couple of manufacturers producing wire cages particularly for hedgehogs: Martin's Cages (choose from the larger ones - the Hedgehog Home is very small) and Hedgehogs by Vicki. Some people recommend multilevel ferret cages, but the height of these cages and the platforms make it dangerous, as falls in these cages are common.

Aquariums 
Aquariums are okay, but you need a large aquarium (i.e. 30 gallon is a good minimum) and a wire mesh top. The major disadvantages are the lack of ventilation, and aquariums are heavy and awkward to clean.

Plastic Containers 
Many owners have gotten quite creative with creating cages out of plastic storage bins. With some slight modifications, you can make a large cage for little money out of clear plastic storage containers (solid color containers would be quite dark for a hedgehog). The biggest downside is again ventilation. Holes can be made in the sides and lid with a soldering iron or drill, but it is difficult to provide enough holes to provide great ventilation. If you get a deep enough container and don't have anything (including water bottles) around the walls that the hedgehog can use for climbing, you may be able to get away with having no lid. Alternatively, you can fashion a lid out of hardware wire mesh or screen material, either on its own, or attached to a large opening cut in the lid of the storage container. The Michigan Hedgehog Owners Group site has an ingenious idea for a two-container home with instructions. Hedgehog Valley suggests cutting panels in the sides of the container and fixing wire mesh or plastic canvas over the openings to aid ventilation in this type of home. With creativity, these homes can work quite well.

Other Options 
I have seen other ideas for cages, such as wading pools (solid plastic with high sides) and home-made wooden cages. As long as a cage is large enough, escape proof and safe, ventilated and easy to clean, then your imagination is the limit.

Accessories

Cage bedding should be nontoxic, absorbent, and relatively dust free. Avoid cedar or pine shavings as they cause respiratory problems in hedgehogs. Shredded paper works well and is cost efficient. Our hospital recommends Carefresh, a paper bedding that is soft, absorbent, and easy to clean. Hedgehogs need a shelter, or a hide box in their cage. Offering a PVC pipe, plastic pot on its side, a tissue or shoe box, or another form of shelter, will give your hedgehog a place of security and a place to sleep.

Hedgehogs require exercise to satisfy their desire to forage and to avoid obesity. This is easily achieved due to their curious and inquisitive nature. Hedgehogs love to push, chew, and manipulate toys, such as hard plastic balls, and paper towel rolls. Your hedgehog will need an exercise wheel to run on ( THIS IS A MUST HAVE ). Hedgehogs need wheels with solid floors, and solid pet-store bought wheels are EXPENSIVE since they need wheels large enough to run on. Wheels cut from the bottom of a plastic bucket and sanded to avoid any sharp edges are your best choice, and they are less expensive and easy to create. Try to avoid mesh or wire wheels, or any other type of wheel that your hedgehog might get their feet or toenails stuck in, which may cause serious injuries. Your pet will also need a food dish, a water bottle or bowl, they will also need some type of hut to sleep in. Hedgehogs are shy but inquisitive creatures and like checking out new things, so alternate things in their cage like rocks to climb on, pieces of drift wood to climb under and push around or even tunnels made of PVC pipe to run through or hide in. These are all good choices to help keep your hedgehog active, happy and healthy.

 Toys

Hide Outs Hedgehogs sleep in burrows or other dark places in the wild.  We feel it is beneficial for the hedgehog’s well being to have a warm and comfortable place to sleep. Hideouts should have an entrance and an exit (tunnel) or it should be large enough for the hedgie to turn around.  Hedgehogs usually turn around rather than back out of a tight spot.	Ava Carnes
Sleeping bags Fleece sleeping bags are warm and snuggly and most hedgehogs enjoy them. Our sleeping bags have a stiffener in top so the bag remains slightly open which allows the hedgehogs’ easy access inside.
It is a good idea to have multiple bags because more than likely the hedgie bag will get dirty and need to be washed.  Dirty bags may become breeding grounds for bacteria. Some hedgehogs might prefer to sleep under or on the sleeping bags instead of inside but as long as the hedgehog is happy the bag is a useful accessory. Remember to always check for loose threads or damaged fabric because a loose thread could easily wrap around a leg and cut off circulation.
Other Burrowing Options Fabric squares will also work for burrowing. Make sure that there are no frayed edges and that the hedgehog cannot get a foot tangled in the material. For example, terrycloth would be a BAD choice. Polar fleece is relatively cheap and can be cut into big squares. Be sure to remove soiled fabric when necessary. Igloos Igloos made from hard plastic are another great cage addition.  The cave like structure allows the hedgehog to feel safe and hidden. Plastic igloos are easy to clean and sanitize.  It might be a little tricky getting your hedgehog out of an enclosed igloo so you might want to put the sleeping bag inside the igloo for your hedgehog.  You can pull out the sleeping bag and then take your hedgehog out of the bag.  If your enclosure does not have a roof, watch your placement of the igloo in the cage. Some hedgehogs have been known to use the roof as a launch pad out of the cage. Sleeping Bags in Igloos Some hedgehogs will drag their sleeping bags into their igloos for an extra cozy sleeping spot.    The sleeping bag inside the igloo will provide burrowing opportunities for your hedgie or it will make a soft, warm bed if your hedgehog chooses to sleep on top of the bag. Shoes Boxes or Other Cardboard One of the simplest hedgie hideouts is an old shoebox with a door cut in one end. Some hedgehogs love the smell of leather so nothing could be more wonderful for these hedgies than a house that smells like new shoes! A disadvantage to these boxes is that they are not easily cleaned and their flat top makes a good place to poop and the flat box top can give your hedgie just enough of a boost to make an escape. Be prepared to dispose of soiled cardboard. PVC Pipes Large diameter PVC pipes can be purchased at most hardware stores. You should thoroughly wash each piece and make shore there are no sharp edges on the pipe. They can be easily cleaned and you can connect several pieces to make a lengthy tunnel. The biggest disadvantage of PVC pipes is that it is difficult to get your hedgehog out of the without “dumping” them.  Some hedgehogs may not be too upset about dumping but I know I certainly wouldn’t appreciate being dumped out of my bed!  Some hedgehogs may come out when they hear your voice (usually as conditioned response connected with treats) but most will NOT come when called.  Most PVC pipes are not large enough to allow your hand to slip inside to lift the hedgehog out. Wood boxes or Huts There are several very cute wooden huts and boxes available for pets. Hedgehogs will not chew on the wood but it is likely they will poop on it at some point. Wood products are not easy to clean and sanitize and should therefore be considered disposable.  Contaminated wood can harbor bacteria that can make your hedgehog sick. Other accessories include clay flowerpots, one gallon ice cream or paint buckets, and other objects to hide in.  Critter Exercise Balls Hedgehogs love to explore their environment.  Unfortunately they have a propensity for finding places where they are not supposed to go including under furniture and appliances. A large 12” Critter ball is a relatively safe way for hedgehogs to explore their surroundings.  Most owners prefer the clear balls rather than the colored balls.  It is hard to say what the hedgie prefers! The best way to introduce a hedgehog to the ball is to prop it in its cage so he/she can go into and out of it at will.   Once your hedgehog is comfortable with a stationary ball a rolling ball won’t be quite so scary. One MUST be cautious of stairs and other pets to ensure the hedgehog’s safety. Superpet makes a Hamtrac that will accommodate the large size balls.  This creates an exceptionally safe area to roll.
Toys Hedgehogs and are like small children in that they can turn ordinary household items into a favorite toy. One must carefully inspect every cage addition or play item for small detachable parts and sharp edges the same as you would for a young child. Like children, hedgehogs seem to prefer bright colors but your hedgehog may have no color preference at all.  Many hedgehogs like to push, pull, drag, and climb on a variety of different objects.
Toilet paper tubes A toilet paper tubes is one of the cheapest and most popular hedgehog toys.  Occasionally a hedgehog will ram its head so far down the tube that its head will get stuck.  To prevent this problem you can cut the tube length ways before giving it to your hedgie.  Some owners cut the tube in half width ways as well. The cut will prevent breathing problems and it will come off more easily for your hedgehog. My friend had one hedgehog that loved to chase plastic cat balls around with the tube on its head.  He would corral the ball and work it into its food dish.  After the task was accomplished he would lie down and go to sleep!                  Small Plastic Balls Many hedgehogs love to play with ping pong balls, lattice bird or cat balls, or small balls with bells inside.  Make sure the balls are not sturdy and not easily chewed or damaged. Another version of the plastic ball is a ferret treat ball.  As the hedgie pushes around the ball a treat will come out. Stuffed Animals Some hedgehogs are known to have taken a special liking to stuffed animal friends. We recommend human, cat or dog stuffed animals the same size as your hedgehog or smaller. Your hedgehog may simply ignore the stuffed animal or you may see your hedgehog snuggling with it in its hedgehog hideout. Be sure to wash or replace soiled stuffed animals. Cars and Trucks Your hedgehog might enjoy pushing a small plastic car or truck around its cage. Make sure the vehicle has no detachable parts or sharp edges that could harm or injure your hedgie. Leather and Rawhide Hedgehogs often have an affinity for old shoes and other leather. Slip-on-shoes are a great place for hedgies to explore!  Be careful of gifts they might leave behind the next time you go to put on your shoe. Leather or rawhide puppy chew toys may be a fun treat for your pet.

Feeding

Hedgehogs are classified as insectivorous (insect eaters) but appear to be very opportunistic eaters in the wild eating a wide variety of insects, mollusks (worms and snails) small animals and vegetation, fruits. and greens.  Using this information, commercial hedgehog diets have been created to adjust to their dietary needs in captivity. These diets may contain chitin, a material found in the exoskeleton of insects, that some feel is required in the hedgehog diet. If a commercial hedgehog diet is unavailable, it can be substituted with a high quality, high protein/low fat cat food. This can be offered with small amounts of mixed fruits and vegetables. As a treat, hedgehogs will go “hog wild” for live insects, like crickets, mealworms, or earthworms.If your hedgehog becomes overweight, limit the quantity of food and treats given, and increase exercise.

The staple of your hedgehog’s diet should be a quality commercial hedgehog food. It should contain at least 30 percent protein and no more than 15 percent fat. If you are unable to purchase hedgehog food, feed your pet a diet of quality dry cat food that is labeled as low fat. Avoid foods that show processed corn high on the list of ingredients.

Feed your small pet only 4 tablespoons of hedgehog food or dry cat food per day. Any more than this may cause your hedgehog to become obese. If it starts becoming overweight on 4 tablespoons, cut the amount down to 3 tablespoons per day.

Supplements
Vitamin supplements designed for hedgehogs can be purchased at some pet supply stores and over the Internet, but if your hedgehog is eating a balanced diet, it shouldn’t need supplementation with vitamins. If you want to give your hedgehog vitamins, talk to you veterinarian first.

Treats
Hedgehogs need fresh foods in their diet, and these should come in the form of treats. Treats should consist of cooked, unseasoned chicken, tuna, liver and salmon; brewer’s yeast; cooked lentils, cabbage and cauliflower; and cooked or raw peas and corn. Fresh green vegetables are also necessary for your hedgehog to stay healthy. Offer greens such as romaine lettuce, arugula, watercress, dandelions or collards. You can try offering your hedgehog occasional fruit as well, including berries, pears or apples.

Do not give your hedgehog these fresh foods every day. Instead, offer a few pieces each time you give your small pet treats, which should be about four times a week. Overfeeding of treats is a leading cause of obesity in hedgehogs.

Live insects make good treats for hedgehogs, too. You can buy crickets or mealworms to give to your small pet. Give only one insect per week. If you buy crickets for your hedgehog, keep them in a ventilated container with a piece of moist fruit so the crickets can feed and get water before you give them to your hedgehog. 

Socilization and Bonding Tips

The quills on the hedgehog are stiff and pokey to the touch. The quills provide protection when the animal rolls up in a tight ball. When attempting to handle your pet, approach it slowly and quietly. Avoid the quills by lifting the animal from the underneath, where the fur is soft, and hold your pet cupped in both holds. Handle your pet every day for a few minutes and it will become socialized and  easier to handle, therefore, you will not need to worry about getting your hedgehog's quills to always lay flat in order to scoop him up.

Steps for a less grumpy hedgehog: 

1. Try placing an old t-shirt which you have worn recently or kept under your pillow for a few nights in your hedgehog's cage. This will help your hedgehog get to know your scent and be less afraid of you.

2. Hold your hedgehog every night for at least 30 minutes. You can do this while reading a book, watching TV, even while sitting on the computer.

3. Offer your hedgehog a treat when you make progress. For instance, if your hedgehog has just uncurled itself while on your lap, offer him a mealworm or other treat as a reward. Positive reinforcement is a wonderful way to get a hedgehog to be more friendly.

Common problems in your hedgie's health

Mites

Mites are an external parasite that feed off your hedgehog and burrow in the skin at the base of the spines. Mites can be extremely debilitating on your hedge if they go untreated. You will probably notice loss of quills, or dry patches of skin. Ask your vet to perform a skin scraping to determine if there are any signs of mites on your hedgehog.

Respiratory Infection

Respiratory infections are common and often associated with a too cold environment or stress. Discharge will be seen on the face or wrists of the front legs and respiration may sound wheezy or crackly.  Respiratory infections in hedgehogs are life threatening and medical attention should be sought as soon as possible.  Treatment consists of antibiotics and supportive care and correcting the underlying environmental cause.

Diarrhea 

There are several causes of diarrhea in hedgehogs ranging from dietary indiscretion to bacterial, viral and parasitic infections.  Dehydration associated with diarrhea is a major concern with these small patients.  Soft stool that lasts more than a day or diarrhea associated with other signs that your hedgehog is sick (not eating, inactivity or other change in behavior) should be brought to your veterinarian immediately.

Hibernation

Unlike wild hedgehogs from cooler climates, the pet hedgehog should not hibernate.  Cold temperatures will lead to hibernation behavior that all too often ends with pneumonia or other disease problems.

Tell if Your Hedgehog is Sick

Healthy hedgehogs have: 

• Bright, alert expressions
  
• Plenty of energy
  
• Firm stools
  
• Good appetite 
  

Signs a hedgehog is sick include:

• Lethargy
  
• Lack of appetite
  
• Reluctance to move
  
• Dull expression
  
• Weight loss
  
• Discharge from the eyes or nose
  
• Loose stools
  
• Panting or labored breathing
  
• Paralysis 
  

What To Do If Your Hedgehog Is Sick
If you suspect your hedgehog is under the weather, contact a veterinarian who specializes in exotics right away. (Veterinarians who treat ferrets usually treat hedgehogs as well.) It's a good idea to find an exotic vet in your area before you even purchase your hedgehog, saving you time if your hedgehog is really in trouble.

While you are waiting to take your hedgehog to the vet, reduce its stress by leaving it alone as much as you can. If your small pet lives with another hedgehog, remove the cage mate right away. Provide your ill hedgehog with a dark, quiet environment with a room temperature of around 75 degrees Fahrenheit to keep it comfortable until it’s time to see the vet.

If your hedgehog is sick, do not bathe it unless your veterinarian instructs you to do so. Don’t expose your hedgehog to drafts or loud noises. Avoid handling it if possible.

 Grooming

1. Hedgehogs are fastidious groomers and regularly “anoint” their quills with saliva.

2. Hedgehogs groom themselves, but sometimes need baths if they develop a strong odor or become dirty.

3. Hedgehogs shouldn’t be bathed more than a couple of times a year.

4. Hedgehogs should be fed a hard commercial food to help keep their teeth and gums healthy.

Baths
Bathe your hedgehog in lukewarm water in a small sink using baby shampoo for humans and a toothbrush. Fill the sink with a few inches of water and test to make sure it’s not too hot or cold. Pour some of the water over your hedgehog using a cup, and try not to get water in its eyes or ears. Lather the shampoo by rubbing your hands together and then spread the lather all over your hedgehog except on its face. Scrub in between its quills with the toothbrush. Rinse the hedgehog thoroughly with clean water using the cup until all the soap is gone. Dry the hedgehog off with a towel and keep it out of drafts until it’s dry.

Nail Trims
Your hedgehog’s nails also needing trimming about once a month because they grow continuously. Use a pair of nail clippers designed for cats or human babies. Hold your hedgehog securely on your lap with its feet facing forward. If it struggles, you may need someone to hold it for you while you do the cutting. You or your helper may want to wear gloves or wrap your hedgehog in a towel to avoid getting stuck with quills.

Put one of your hedgehog’s paws in between your thumb and forefinger and squeeze gently to expose the nails. You may need a bright light or flashlight to shine under the nail so you can easily see the pink part. Trim off just the tip of the nail, being careful not to cut into the quick (the pink vein that runs through the thickest part of the nail). If you cut into the quick by accident, the nail will bleed. Stop the bleeding by applying a little styptic powder or cornstarch.

If you are worried about trimming your hedgehog’s nails, ask your veterinarian to do it for you.

Bunny Grooming Head-to-Toe!

Your bunny has specific grooming needs that you have to fulfill every month. To start, put your bunny on a table and get ready to groom!

Get a Head Start

Your bunny's face and head is very important. Eyes and ears catch build-up, and teeth need to be checked for overgrowth. 

Eyes

Carefully look at eyes. Get a dry washcloth and gently wipe away any crusty "sleep" that had built up in their eyes. Yellow or white is normal, but dry blood or black, brown, or green ooze is very bad. Immediately contact the vet.

Test the eyes by pretending to poke the eye. If the rabbit blinks, he has good eyesight. But if he does not blink, you should probably know that this means blindness.

Nose and Ears

Gently look up the nose and into the ears. With a cotton swab, CAREFULLY swipe out any "earwax" into view. This means only the area you can see. NEVER, and I mean never, put the cotton swab into the base of the ear. This could fall down and get stuck, cause irritation, or burst the eardrum.

Mouth

Most rabbits don't like for their mouth to be opened by someone else, but it has to be done. Pull the lips aside gently to see the teeth. Examine them for decay, chipping, overgrowth, bleeding, and then see the other set of teeth. Check the gums for abscesses(they look like white bumps with fleshy spots) and cuts obviously caused by long teeth. Be sure to reward your pet with a treat for good behavior.

Best Foot Forward

Feet on a rabbit can be very delicate. Toes and nails should be checked with care.

Nails

Nails on rabbits grow quickly. Rabbits with curled-in nails cannot walk and will get arthritis. Lay the rabbit in a cradling position. If he feels more comfortable curled in a towel, this is also fine. (Daisy does better sitting for her front paws and I simply lift each paw! This probably won't work for your bunny) Start by trimming each toenail. Remember to avoid the quick(The pink/dark vein in the nail.) since it hurts them if it is exposed. Styptic powder helps this problem. Since Daisy's nails are dark, a flashlight really helps to see the quick! When you are done, carefully file the nails to make them less rough and then, if you like, use a wet cotton ball or swab to clean off any debris.

Toes and paws

Check toes to make sure there are not any cuts. Front and back paws need a special amount of steps. First, check for baldness on the feet. Make sure there is no Sore Hocks(A minor foot disease caused by rubbing against wire bars and sitting in urine). You can determine this by baldness, dried blood, and/or purplish-red bumps all on the back feet. Treat this with Neosporin and contact the vet to give tips and possible treatments for the feet. Use a wet cotton ball to clean off the feet if there is dirt and/or dry feces and urine.

Just Fur You

Time to brush the fur! You will need most of these combs and brushes on hand: (Ask vet about long-haired rabbits) Tip: Rabbit's tummies do not need to be brushed. It is a sensitive area that can hurt them. Plus, most "belly fur" comes off during normal activities.

• Rubber Comb
• Slicker Brush
• Flea Comb(optional)
• Cat Brush
• Bristle Brush
• FURminator (optional)
• Blunt Scissors(for long fur)

First of all, start by using the bristle brush. Skim the fur with this brush. Use this brush to carefully groom the head. 

Next, use the rubber comb to stroke down the back. Do this for a while until it seems to have gotten cleaned up.

Use the flea comb to search through the fur for any parasites.

Use the slicker brush to brush the fur.

Now use the cat brush(usually curved) to comb out all the fur.

Use your hand to slide down the rabbits back to make sure you have combed and brushed the fur well. 

REMEMBER TO NEVER BATHE YOUR BUNNY! THIS COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES TO YOU AND YOUR RABBIT.

The End

Finally you have to check the tail. 

Tail

Urine and feces can get stained in the fur on and around the tail. Use a wipe to remove major stains in the fur.

Scent Glands

The scent glands under a rabbit's chin don't need to be cleaned, but there are two that do. They are located near the tail, close to the genitals. There can be a build-up here, so it is recommended they should be cleaned every time you do your daily grooming routine. Rabbit's scent glands look like a pocket in the skin. When clogged up, they have dark residue stuck in them. Sometimes bits of dried urine and feces can get in here too, so it's and added bonus to clean these out. Get a cotton swab and put warm water on it. With your rabbit cradled between your knees, loosen the debris by gently holding it open between two fingers. Rabbits normally don't like this,(who would?) so remember to give him a special snack or treat when you are done. He probably deserves it!!

Senior Buns

Daisy: This post is all about senior rabbits, or "buns," a nickname for the word "bunnies." I personally wonder why I have to have something to do with this blog, because I am not, what you may say, old. I am, in fact, nearly 3 years old, which is like, a mature adult in the rabbit world, like, say, 25, or even 30. Okay, not 30, but like, 20. Yeah, 20. When you are anywhere between "weeks" or "days", you are a kid. When you are in "months," it's like a teenager, and in "years", you are an adult. When you reach 7 years you are an old rabbit, like 75 years. A rabbit that lives over 10 years is like a 110 year old person! Wow! I don't know if that is good or bad, but..... Well, I had better stop now. You know how I get carried away!

Signs of an Aging Rabbit

Sleeping More Often

Your rabbit will not want to romp around the house, but instead, you will find him snuggling in a certain place. A good idea is to get a little dog or cat bed and put it in a place where you are very often. You will also notice he does not climb stairs or other things like he used to.

Not using the Litter-Box

Rabbits can get arthritis, so he may not be able to hop into his litter-box like usual. Low opening litter-boxes are good when you cannot be there to lift him into his box.

Not Grooming as Well

Your pet bunny will almost always get arthritis as he gets older. Soon, it will be difficult for him to groom himself like normal and this could lead to a smelly pet. A baby wipe or barely wet washcloth can help this problem.

Care Tips

Excerpts about senior rabbit care from Bunny Bunch S.P.C.R president and founder of the rescue organization, Caroline Charland. The complete article can be found in the Rabbits magazine, which can be purchased online at www.smallanimalchannel.com.

Living Quarters

Keep living quarters safe, comfortable, and clean. Remove any item that could have potential danger to your rabbit. At Bunny Bunch, we cover bricks in fake sheepskin to give our rabbits something to lean against.... Rabbits also enjoy having pillows to rest their heads against too.....We also use washable pee pads for our rabbits via litter boxes because it hurts their feet with or without a metal grate.

Another Rabbit

I strongly recommend that rabbits live with at least one other rabbit.... In old age we see rabbits do amazing things for each other. Some rabbits will clean each other's eyes or groom their fur...... A rabbit that has become blind does much better when living with another rabbit...... They will guide the other one around and let them lean on him.

Lots of Love

Spend time with your rabbit. Senior rabbits are very sweet and they rarely ever want to be left alone. Even the friskiest rabbit here at Bunny Bunch becomes calmer and laid-back once he is older. 

Happy Days for Rabbits

Nowadays, many pet rabbits are spending their life enjoying free-run of a house or a special room. The danger of outdoor living is gone. Today's house rabbits are living to be 12, 13, or even 14 years old. 

People are more aware of rabbit care now. They are taking their pet rabbits to the veterinarian, feeding them safe foods, and making sure they are living in a good environment, not making the horrible decision of living outdoors. At the Bunny Bunch Burrow, the organization I founded, people come to learn about rabbits. Every day a rabbit gets a loving home as a true member of the family. As more and more people own rabbits, people will start to notice them and understand them better. They will realize that rabbits are like a cat or dog, a pet rather than a wild animal. At Bunny Bunch, we care for our rabbits in the best way possible, which contributes to giving our rabbits a longer life span, and hopefully a great home with a caring family.

Go to www.bunnybunch.com to see rabbits you can adopt today and give a loving home forever!

Puppy Love

Yesterday I visited a friend's house, and she had a very special surprise! A new puppy for Christmas! Holly, which was the puppy's name, was a West Highland Terrier. Seems familiar from the Cesar dog food advertisements. Remember the cute fluffy dog with seemingly immaculate soft fur? As puppies they are teeny tiny balls of cuddly soft cuteness, but these docile breeds grow up to  14-16 inches in height, and from what I have read, they live 12-16 years.

West Highland Terriers, or Westies, as they are more popularly known, originated from Scotland. The name "Scottie", and "Westie" can confuse you into thinking they are two different breeds, but the names are all for the same dog. Right? Wrong. Just remember that the dog with a mustache is a Scotland Terrier. The dog with a beard under his chin is a West Highland Terrier. Also, the two differ  in the length of their snouts--West Highland Terriers have shorter muzzles, while Scotland Terriers have very long noses.                        

So cute....so fluffy.........Who doesn't want one?


Even the cutest puppy still needs for his puppy pads to be cleaned, his bed to be washed, and his fur to be cuddled. Before you rush off and buy your pup before you finish reading this post, you need to know about them. So come on and please please don't stop reading this, because we have just started.

Consideration #1: The Amount Of Care. When they get older and they can actually run outside, Westies are frisky breeds and should only be for people who have enough time to let them outside to play fetch often. They are active dogs that love to run and play, which is surprising since they have really short legs! Westies also are very courageous dogs that will do anything, even if it means death, to protect you and your home--another surprising fact since a lot of small dogs get easily frightened.

Consideration #2: Other Pets. Westies are known as "rat dogs" because they were used for hunting rats underground when they were first introduced to the U.S.  Therefore, any small rodents could get stressed around a dog like that, and to make matters worse, he could possibly be killed. Just because there isn't any rats in your home doesn't mean nobody will get "hurt". Animals get jealous about the attention others recieve. You may notice your cat is more in hiding than usual when you first bring your pup home. Other dogs aren't as jealous, but they probably will do something considered naughty to get extra attention, and they probably don't know that "going" on the floor and chewing the puppy's toys will cause the wrong kind of attention! Avoiding this is easy. Spend one-on-one time alone with your jealous pet often, and it surely will wear off.





To learn more about Westies, go to www.wikipedia.com/west highland terriers. Thanks!

Beyond the Front Door

All experienced bunny-owners know that a little outdoor exercise is good for a healthy rabbit. Fresh air benefits your pets want to play, and while he is romping in the grass, you may notice him kick up his heels with joy!

BORED BUNNY

A bored rabbit is likely to chew and gnaw on his cage, and maybe even attempt to chew on a rug or blanket, even if he is well-trained. While living full-time outside isn't a good choice, playing for a limited time is a fun way for your rabbit to exercise fully. Most owners think it is unsafe for a bunny to play outdoors, but they are wrong. However, rabbit owners who are careless leave bunnies to play on their own, left to fend for themselves in the open. But a serious bunny-caretaker doesn't live their pets where the great outdoors could pose a threat to their precious carrot-munchers. If you have a fenced-in yard, your pet will have a little more free run of the outdoors just as well as he does indoors. It is still fun to have a harness on hand, in case your rabbit is brave enough to walk on the leash down the sidewalk! Daisy has her very own red harness that she adores, although she really rather would prefer "taking the reins" and racing around our yard. Still, your pet may enjoy either form of exercise when going outside, because there are many exciting things to see and do.



CAREFUL PLAY

Dogs or cats love rabbits, and not to be their friends, but for a nice dinner. Some dogs or cats do live peacefully with a rabbit, but the strange dogs that aren't yours are the ones to watch for. Be careful that the harness is tight enough! It may look fine when your pet is happily nibbling on grass, but if he is attacked, he could wiggle out. Also, don't tighten it too much, because your bunny could choke when running or walking, and the spine could be damaged beyond repair if your pet became frightened. Even calm rabbits could be seriously hurt, though! Most plants, like grass, pansies, and dandelions, are safe, but some, like hastas, are poisonous. Then why do wild rabbits eat them with no sign of injury? Well, this is because wild rabbits are truly equipped for the outdoors. They can live in the coldest conditions, unlike domestic rabbit breeds. Your domestic pet needs protection, and you can supply it!



KEEP IT QUICK AND FUN

Rabbits need that positive human affection, because they will get bored and aggressive without it. Instead of holding onto your rabbits leash while talking to the neighbor, or sitting on the porch "watching" him lay in the yard while you read the newspaper, play with him! That's right, get down on your knees! Offer him treats and play fun games that rabbits like! You got it!


ALL DONE!

When bunnies lay down, it usually means they are saying, "C'mon, I am pooped! No more play!" When he lays down in the grass, pet him and talk to him. When it gets long, and you think you should be heading in, say a key word, such as, "Inside!" or, "All done!" That way if you need your bunny to wrap it up, you can say the word. He will do it immediately. To show him, pick him up and take him in. After a few weeks of saying it, it will "click." Cool, huh?




I hope you enjoy playing outdoors with your bunny or other pet as much as I did! Remember to be safe, have fun, and go beyond the average indoor playtime!

Wet N' Wild

When your pet is dirty from another fun-filled day, the last thing he wants to do is take a bath, and he might just get what he wants. Why is this? Although bathing your dog has its benefits, bathing a rabbit, hamster, chinchilla or bird may be a very bad idea. 


It May Be Soft Now

Your chinchilla probably has extremely soft and cuddly fur, right? If you think he needs a bath and you plop him into the tub, that fur will get all oily and crusty. Kind of like when you put a super-soft fleecy blanket or pair of pajamas in the dryer and you put it on HIGH instead of LOW. That's what it'll be like for poor old Dusty once his fur dries. Chinchillas get those bath benefits from sand, or self-grooming. So if you are thinking about putting your chinchilla in the tub, think again. He will put matters into his own paws, or to be more exact, his own tongue.


Birds of a Feather Bathe Together

Ever see a flock of birds bathing in a puddle from last rainfall? Believe it or not, those birds are substituting the puddle for a birdbath. Your pet parakeet, finch, or other pet bird bathes in this way too. However, they don't need to be bathed in the way you would bathe a dog. (Have you ever seen Bird Shampoo in the store?) Some birds like to sit under a gentle slowly-running faucet, probably because it is like the splashes of water from a water-fall. Others don't like water at all.


Hare today, gone tomorrow.....

Bunnies may have the ability to swim, but they can get way too cold. Besides, who needs water when you have a built-in personal grooming machine--your tongue! There is no need to bathe your rabbit, much less let him swim around in a bathtub or pool. Rabbits' fur don't trap heat like other animals, because wild rabbits would stay in warrens during the winter cold. The fur also does a bad job of avoiding wet liquid to seep into the fur--so wild rabbits would instinctively stay away from any deep water sites*. Even if you see the "Bunny Bath" shampoo in pet stores, you should not get this. Domestic rabbits have to let their owners do most of the things they would do in the wild by themselves; and that includes food, water, and most importantly, shelter. So, if you were a rabbit and you trusted your owner to take care of you, do you think you would like it if someone plunged you into deep water? Probably not. Plus, your pet could get pneumonia, and that explains the title "Hare today, gone tomorrow...."! (just kidding)
Tip: If your [senior] bunny does have grooming problems because of arthritis and his lower body is getting soiled badly, causing infection, give him a "bottom bath"(see 'In Certain Circumstances...)


Hammie Help


Hamsters are sensitive animals in more ways then one.  Their skin have special oils that hamsters in the desert used to mark their territory. When meeting other hamsters, you may notice your pet's sides have wet, blotchy stains that are clear. These disappear within a few hours. Back to the subject, though: If you bathe your hamster at all, these scent gland areas could get infected and crusty! Hamsters either clean themselves using dust baths or self-grooming, but remember, do NOT use any water if your hamster is dirty. Use a dry, new toothbrush and a soft cloth to gently rub off dirt or any food stains. Be careful around the underbelly and face area.


In Certain Circumstances....

In medical conditions, usually during your pet's senior years, you run into situations that bend the rules a little bit. Senior "Buns" (Bunnies) can get arthritis and it becomes difficult to reach vital areas when grooming, if you know what I mean. If it gets so bad your bunny is suffering, then turn on the faucet halfway and pick up your bunny, supporting its hindquarters and laying his head and neck against your chest. Place his bottom under the warm-water faucet until all the gross stuff looks gone. If it isn't clean yet, take a warm washcloth that has been squeezed out until there is hardly any water there. Gently clean the rest with the washcloth until it is completely clean and then dry him off. The good thing is that senior bunnies don't kick or wiggle like the younger ones would.

Some vets use water to clean out wounds too, and that's okay. Just remember that that is only when it is your pet's last chance to live, and it's for a good reason!



































* Swamp rabbits are the only kind of wild rabbits that live near the swamps. When faced with a predator, they simply jump into the water and swim as fast as their webbed feet can take them. Fascinating, huh?

Betta-Fish Feeding 101

I know I haven't been talking about my fish lately, so I'd better put him in the spotlight today! When I had written my second post a while back, I realized that I hadn't talked a lot about betta-fish feeding and nutrition, but don't worry. I will educate you about that topic today!

A main diet for your betta(s) varies in size and color. The best recommended food for your betta is BettaMin. It is featured in the picture below.

Bettas all have different tastes. Some prefer a certain flavor or color of food.

Other bettas don't like flakes that slowly fall to the ground. My past betta, Starburst, loved a kind of food called Floating Fish Pellets rather than the other brand. 

Once you have chosen the food, you can now go on and pick some treats, if you like. There are many different treats. Most of them are much bigger than normal food, and they float in the water. One I came across was shaped like a log, and was called Floating Log Nibblers. The fish didn't chow down on it all at once, but they could swim up to it whenever they wished and nibble on it.

Treats don't have to be store-bought to be yummy! Bloodworms and brine shrimp are a nice little snack from time to time. Two bloodworms or one brine shrimp once a week is a good amount for your little betta fish.

Jaws enjoys feeding time!

A small mount of food is just enough.

This food has bits of shrimp in it and has a bright orange color that attracts fish.

Not Just Fleas!

The beautiful colors....the migrating geese.....Autumn is the time where you can really appreciate nature.

But it's also the time for ticks and mosquitoes to start biting before the cold snow starts to come. If you let your small pet go on a harness outside, you have to be sure not to stay out too long. "Pets can not only get dehydrated, they can also get bitten pretty bad by those insects out there." a dog website tells readers.

Set up a Mini "Pet Treatment Center!"

Ouch! Have you ever been bitten or stung before? Boy, does it hurt! If you think your dog, cat, or other pet has been bitten or stung, try these simple, soothing methods for pets.

1. Remove any stingers by gently scratching with the side of a credit card or your own finger on the wound area. The stung area will look pink and puffy and will have a brown line embedded in your pet's skin.
2. Take some ice in a plastic bag and carefully press it on the pet's wound. There might be a little blood.
3. Inject any venom in the bloodstream by putting a little baking soda and water or a small amount of meat tenderizer on your pet's wound site.
4. To reduce itching and irritation, put milk of magnesia all over the bite or sting wound.
5. To lessen any more pain, make up an oatmeal bath either using special pet oatmeal-shampoo, or you can also tie a sock filled with regular oatmeal or some colloidal to the water faucet. The water will wash out the sock, creating a creamy texture to the water.
6. Get some ammonia and put it on a cotton swab. Rub it on the area. If you don't have ammonia, grab some hydro-cortisone cream and put a thin layer on your pet's bite or sting. This will decrease any more pain.

When you are done with the treatment, watch your pet carefully. Every day, put a little aloe-vera gel on the bite or sting. The healing process will increase more quickly.

If you think your pet has been bitten by a black widow or brown recluse spider, take him to the vet immediately. You will save his life.

A few tips by Daisy and Peanut (when your pet needs the vet)

• If your pet has lumps all over him, you should take him into the vet. He could have allergies.
• If your pet has a small bug the size of a this period(.) or larger stuck under his fur, this is a tick. When the are as big as your fingernail, that means they are filled with blood. Remove them with tweezers and take your pet into the vet--pronto! 
• A way to keep mosquitoes away is pet-friendly insect spray or, a clip-on one to put on your pet's collar. Mosquitoes aren't something to worry about like a different insect bite or sting is, but it still can get itchy!! 

The Ultimate Scrubdown

Note from the author: Critter Corner is asking you to comment and tell us all about what your pet likes to do on Thanksgiving and Christmas or a tradition you do with your family(and pets)--and you could have a chance to tell us a post you'd like to see on this blog. It could be featured in the future! Just comment on any blog, anytime, through November 9th all the way up to December 1st--telling us about your pet's Christmas and/or Thanksgiving, and tell what you'd like the post to be about if you could choose. Have fun!!


Today's post is much like the new poll for this week: all about cleaning out the water and food bowls--and cleaning out your pet's cage. Don't just clean it, scrub it!! Every week you should remove all objects from the cage and place your pet in a safe area while you soap up every surface possible. Using pet-safe spray or special wipes is ideal, but it can also be costly. Vinegar spray and non-scented baby wipes are less expensive and still just as safe, not to mention you almost always will have these in you home. Critter Corner doesn't recommend letting your pet eat or lick up any of these things, no matter how pet-safe they may be.

Does your small pet use a litter box? If so, you may find it easier to clean the cage and you may think this means you don't have to clean the main area. This isn't true!! You must always clean the whole cage--ALWAYS! Just because there isn't any waste in the cage--only the litter box, this doesn't mean you shouldn't clean it. Hidden bacteria could make your pet's cage dirty over time;this could gradually cause your pet to be sick.    Please clean out every inch of the cage--it will be better for you and your pet!

The bottom line: Do this every week! Remember, after you have cleaned the cage, use a towel to dry the wet areas, because you do not your pet to get wet and get pneumonia from the cold.

The Big O

A problem pet owners face is the daily treat consumption of their small animals--and this can lead to a very, uh, heavy pet. Treats bought in the store cause most of the trouble because owners think that whatever the package says is OK. For example, A mistake I made once was to get the so-called "healthy" treats and follow what the back said was fine to do. Feed up to 4 per day, blah blah blah. I was feeding my bunny treats every day--when they were just meaning in a whole day, not every single day like vitamins or something. But even healthy treats like carrots, apples or celery can make your pet obese. "It isn't always  based on if the food is healthy or not, it's the amount of food you give the pet that counts." a rabbit magazine says.


Processed treats like "Yogies!" or those pet granola chew things are a big no-no for a pet who likes to eat a lot because they just can't say "I'm full". These treats aren't satisfying enough for your small animal to not want to eat anymore and still not be "stuffed". Herbivore's stomachs, especially rabbit's, digest food slowly and sometimes they can become very constipated--that's why hay and grass is vital to their systems. These "junk food" treats can ruin that natural flow that hay supplies, and that leaves the pet with a big stomach-ache. Some pet owners don't even offer treats to their pets--they only give them fresh pellets and hay. Most pet owners I know are curious about those cool-looking treats in the food aisle, and they might try them out once, and even just once is too much. Pets who have never eaten treats before have always been thinking there was was nothing better tasting than good ol' hay and dry pellets, but when the owner introduces treats, the pet could neglect his daily diet and just want treats.

To avoid making that mistake that many owners make, don't give treats that are fatty to your pet, because you'll be left with wasted money and a very chubby small animal on your hands!

Keeping a Routine

Rats are highly intelligent and observant creatures, so even a slight change will make a rat confused and worried. If someone, for example, passed away in the household, especially if the rat favored them, the rat could become depressed and even die too. But the things you can change whenever you like should be in an organized way. In the mornings, you should do what you normally do for your rat. Perhaps you give it a crumble of toast or a nibble of dry cereal. In the afternoons, you most likely will go to work or school. Around the evening, right when you come home, spend time with your rat for at least half an hour. Later on, you should spend another half hour of time with him. Be sure to include at least an average of 10 minutes of "ball time"(or when you put your rat in his exercise ball) and training time, if you want to. Rats don't like "whenever", they like it if you are planning on doing it every day. In the wild, rats went in packs, like a colony, and every day they scavenged the same area they always went to. Domestic rats are like this. There's a time to eat, sleep, and play. This is how a rat's normal day usually is.

A Rat's Normal Day


Scurry around
Nibble on food
Climb on cage bars
Take naps
Wake up
Drink water, eat...
Take more naps
Owner comes home
Wait
Owner gives treats
Owner lets me out of cage
He lets me explore room(or even house)
He gets down
He plays with me
I go in rat ball
I get out and go in cage
I eat, sleep, play in cage
Owner feeds and waters me
Training time
Owner does his own thing
The end





Usually all rats are different, so they do things differently, and so do their owners, so try to   "go with the flow" and observe your rat's routine!!

Remember to Give your Ferret Water!!

                                             One of the most important things you need to live: water. Animals, humans, all living beings need water. Your ferret should have water available at all times, so check it everyday and rinse the bottles out before you refill!!


What To Use, What To Use..... 

Ugh! It's time to choose pet supplies for your pet ferret. The next thing on your list says "water container".
You walk down the aisle, the whole half of the aisle is filled with water bottles, special bowls, and even some strange things you wouldn't dare give your ferret. What do you pick?? The first thing to do is choose a durable, thick plastic water bottle or bowl. Ceramic bowls are better than plastic because the ferrets can't topple them over. Purchase the best one that will last you as long as your ferret.


When Water Is Not Water


There are four types of water: Tap, bottled, distilled, or filtered water.

Distilled water is created using the distillation process(boiling the water and re-condensing the steam into liquid water). This removes all impurities, minerals, and nutrients in the water. It should be avoided because it usually causes hair loss, which is often associated with certain mineral deficiencies.

Tap water can be filled with chlorine or build-up, which cakes the sides of the necks of the bottle. Imagine what it could do to the inside of your ferret!!

Filtered water, water filtered by special containers you can buy in the store, is the best bet for your ferret.
Bottled Spring water can also be used, but just be sure to read the label on the back!

For More Ferret Heath Tips, go to:    www.smallanimalchannel.com/ferrets , and look for the Diet section to learn about ferret water tips. (there's also some fun stuff to read and do, so go check it out!!!)