Showing posts with label cleaning. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cleaning. Show all posts

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

Bunny Grooming Head-to-Toe!

Your bunny has specific grooming needs that you have to fulfill every month. To start, put your bunny on a table and get ready to groom!



Get a Head Start

Your bunny's face and head is very important. Eyes and ears catch build-up, and teeth need to be checked for overgrowth. 

Eyes
Carefully look at eyes. Get a dry washcloth and gently wipe away any crusty "sleep" that had built up in their eyes. Yellow or white is normal, but dry blood or black, brown, or green ooze is very bad. Immediately contact the vet.
Test the eyes by pretending to poke the eye. If the rabbit blinks, he has good eyesight. But if he does not blink, you should probably know that this means blindness.


Nose and Ears
Gently look up the nose and into the ears. With a cotton swab, CAREFULLY swipe out any "earwax" into view. This means only the area you can see. NEVER, and I mean never, put the cotton swab into the base of the ear. This could fall down and get stuck, cause irritation, or burst the eardrum.


Mouth
Most rabbits don't like for their mouth to be opened by someone else, but it has to be done. Pull the lips aside gently to see the teeth. Examine them for decay, chipping, overgrowth, bleeding, and then see the other set of teeth. Check the gums for abscesses(they look like white bumps with fleshy spots) and cuts obviously caused by long teeth. Be sure to reward your pet with a treat for good behavior.



Best Foot Forward

Feet on a rabbit can be very delicate. Toes and nails should be checked with care.

Nails
Nails on rabbits grow quickly. Rabbits with curled-in nails cannot walk and will get arthritis. Lay the rabbit in a cradling position. If he feels more comfortable curled in a towel, this is also fine. (Daisy does better sitting for her front paws and I simply lift each paw! This probably won't work for your bunny) Start by trimming each toenail. Remember to avoid the quick(The pink/dark vein in the nail.) since it hurts them if it is exposed. Styptic powder helps this problem. Since Daisy's nails are dark, a flashlight really helps to see the quick! When you are done, carefully file the nails to make them less rough and then, if you like, use a wet cotton ball or swab to clean off any debris.



Toes and paws
Check toes to make sure there are not any cuts. Front and back paws need a special amount of steps. First, check for baldness on the feet. Make sure there is no Sore Hocks(A minor foot disease caused by rubbing against wire bars and sitting in urine). You can determine this by baldness, dried blood, and/or purplish-red bumps all on the back feet. Treat this with Neosporin and contact the vet to give tips and possible treatments for the feet. Use a wet cotton ball to clean off the feet if there is dirt and/or dry feces and urine.



Just Fur You

Time to brush the fur! You will need most of these combs and brushes on hand: (Ask vet about long-haired rabbits) Tip: Rabbit's tummies do not need to be brushed. It is a sensitive area that can hurt them. Plus, most "belly fur" comes off during normal activities.
  • Rubber Comb
  • Slicker Brush
  • Flea Comb(optional)
  • Cat Brush
  • Bristle Brush
  • FURminator (optional)
  • Blunt Scissors(for long fur)

First of all, start by using the bristle brush. Skim the fur with this brush. Use this brush to carefully groom the head. 
Next, use the rubber comb to stroke down the back. Do this for a while until it seems to have gotten cleaned up.
Use the flea comb to search through the fur for any parasites.
Use the slicker brush to brush the fur.
Now use the cat brush(usually curved) to comb out all the fur.
Use your hand to slide down the rabbits back to make sure you have combed and brushed the fur well. 

REMEMBER TO NEVER BATHE YOUR BUNNY! THIS COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS CONSEQUENCES TO YOU AND YOUR RABBIT.



The End

Finally you have to check the tail. 

Tail
Urine and feces can get stained in the fur on and around the tail. Use a wipe to remove major stains in the fur.

Scent Glands
The scent glands under a rabbit's chin don't need to be cleaned, but there are two that do. They are located near the tail, close to the genitals. There can be a build-up here, so it is recommended they should be cleaned every time you do your daily grooming routine. Rabbit's scent glands look like a pocket in the skin. When clogged up, they have dark residue stuck in them. Sometimes bits of dried urine and feces can get in here too, so it's and added bonus to clean these out. Get a cotton swab and put warm water on it. With your rabbit cradled between your knees, loosen the debris by gently holding it open between two fingers. Rabbits normally don't like this,(who would?) so remember to give him a special snack or treat when you are done. He probably deserves it!!




Friday, November 9, 2012

The Ultimate Scrubdown

Note from the author: Critter Corner is asking you to comment and tell us all about what your pet likes to do on Thanksgiving and Christmas or a tradition you do with your family(and pets)--and you could have a chance to tell us a post you'd like to see on this blog. It could be featured in the future! Just comment on any blog, anytime, through November 9th all the way up to December 1st--telling us about your pet's Christmas and/or Thanksgiving, and tell what you'd like the post to be about if you could choose. Have fun!!


Today's post is much like the new poll for this week: all about cleaning out the water and food bowls--and cleaning out your pet's cage. Don't just clean it, scrub it!! Every week you should remove all objects from the cage and place your pet in a safe area while you soap up every surface possible. Using pet-safe spray or special wipes is ideal, but it can also be costly. Vinegar spray and non-scented baby wipes are less expensive and still just as safe, not to mention you almost always will have these in you home. Critter Corner doesn't recommend letting your pet eat or lick up any of these things, no matter how pet-safe they may be.

Does your small pet use a litter box? If so, you may find it easier to clean the cage and you may think this means you don't have to clean the main area. This isn't true!! You must always clean the whole cage--ALWAYS! Just because there isn't any waste in the cage--only the litter box, this doesn't mean you shouldn't clean it. Hidden bacteria could make your pet's cage dirty over time;this could gradually cause your pet to be sick.    Please clean out every inch of the cage--it will be better for you and your pet!

The bottom line: Do this every week! Remember, after you have cleaned the cage, use a towel to dry the wet areas, because you do not your pet to get wet and get pneumonia from the cold.

Monday, November 5, 2012

Keeping a Routine

Rats are highly intelligent and observant creatures, so even a slight change will make a rat confused and worried. If someone, for example, passed away in the household, especially if the rat favored them, the rat could become depressed and even die too. But the things you can change whenever you like should be in an organized way. In the mornings, you should do what you normally do for your rat. Perhaps you give it a crumble of toast or a nibble of dry cereal. In the afternoons, you most likely will go to work or school. Around the evening, right when you come home, spend time with your rat for at least half an hour. Later on, you should spend another half hour of time with him. Be sure to include at least an average of 10 minutes of "ball time"(or when you put your rat in his exercise ball) and training time, if you want to. Rats don't like "whenever", they like it if you are planning on doing it every day. In the wild, rats went in packs, like a colony, and every day they scavenged the same area they always went to. Domestic rats are like this. There's a time to eat, sleep, and play. This is how a rat's normal day usually is.

A Rat's Normal Day


Scurry around
Nibble on food
Climb on cage bars
Take naps
Wake up
Drink water, eat...
Take more naps
Owner comes home
Wait
Owner gives treats
Owner lets me out of cage
He lets me explore room(or even house)
He gets down
He plays with me
I go in rat ball
I get out and go in cage
I eat, sleep, play in cage
Owner feeds and waters me
Training time
Owner does his own thing
The end





Usually all rats are different, so they do things differently, and so do their owners, so try to   "go with the flow" and observe your rat's routine!!