EMU - cabbage, fleece and other stuff (even more updates!)

The Igs here. Actually my real name is Iggy. Ignatius Sir Pig. That's what my owner calls me. 

Today my owner gave me some new cabbage. It's even higher in the vitamin C I need. It tastes yummy and the leaves come off in bigger pieces so it's easier my my person to serve. I have a chip clip my owner hung on my cage and she puts the lettuce it it. It's sooo yummy. And good excersise. To any piggie owners, this is the difference between cabbage and iceberg lettuce.

This first picture is the type of cabbage my owner gets for me. It's good for pigs.

This here is BAD for us pigs. It has no dietary content and it's too watery. Enough said!!

I also had my bedding changed. I'm allergic to the bedding my owner used for me. It was CareFRESH, but it still had too small particles that got into my nose and made me sneeze. I don't have any nasal discharge, luckily, so it's just allergies.

My fleece is girly girl fleece, but it is nice and cushy. 

It is quite messy. /: But, that is the problem with fleece. My owner brushes it off every day, so it doesn't always look this icky. (As you may know, we guinea pigs do make big messes. We like to spread that hay around! So what?)

Sugar Glider Nutrition

Sugar gliders are naturally omnivorous, meaning they eat both animal and plant products. In the wild, they feast mostly on sap and gums (from trees), nectar, pollens, honeydews and a huge variety of insects and arachnids.

In captivity, the most critical part of keeping healthy sugar gliders is to provide a balanced, varied, fresh diet. This means ensuring the correct ratio of carbohydrates to proteins and supplying adequate vitamins and minerals. 
 
Your sugar glider’s daily basic diet should include:

• A nectar mix such as Leadbeater’s mixture
  
• Vegetables
  
• Fruits
  
• Insects
  
• Commercial pelleted food for gliders, or an insectavore/carnivore pelleted food

Note: Sugar gliders can have lean unseasoned meats as a treat.

All foods should be fresh or frozen. Fresh vegetables and fruits should be washed thoroughly to remove pesticides, and frozen foods should be thoroughly thawed. Insects can be live or canned. Pelleted food should be fresh — do not feed food that has been stored for more than two months. Nectar mixes should be refrigerated and thrown out after three weeks.

If you are giving your sugar glider enough food at night, you should find a little left over in the morning. All uneaten foods should be removed to prevent spoilage, and all dishes should be washed with biodegradable soap and hot water. 
 
Treats can be used to help tame and bond with your sugar glider, but should not make up more than 5 percent of your sugar glider's total daily intake of food. Healthy treats include very small pieces of cooked (not fried) lean unseasoned poultry or beef. Some sugar gliders also like tofu.
 
Make a Leadbeater’s mixture for your sugar glider by following this recipe:
 
Modified Leadbeater's Mix Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water
  
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons raw honey
  
• 1 shelled hard-boiled egg
  
• 1 teaspoon vitamin/mineral supplement (designed for sugar gliders, reptiles or small pets)
  
• 1/2 cup high-protein baby cereal

Directions:
Mix the first four ingredients in a blender, and then gradually add the baby cereal, blending until smooth. Refrigerate or freeze unused portions. Discard any unused refrigerated portion after three days.

Note: This recipe appears in the book, "Sugar Gliders - A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Caroline MacPherson.

Commercial sugar glider food should be prepared and stored as directed on the manufacturer’s packaging.

Freshly prepared Leadbeater's mix can be refrigerated in plastic or glass airtight containers for up to three days. The mixture can also be frozen in airtight packaging for up to six months.

Your sugar glider cage should contain several food dishes and at least two water bottles. Food and water containers should be placed high up in the cage because this is where sugar gliders naturally feed.

Daily fresh water is critical for sugar gliders because they can become dangerously dehydrated without it for even a day. Small mammal water bottles can be used to provide water to sugar gliders as they are less likely than a dish to be contaminated with urine, feces or food. The bottles should be routinely inspected for leakage and should be cleaned with biodegradable soap and hot water at least once a week.

At least two water bottles should be provided in the cage.

Water bowls are less prone to leaking and are more natural and more easily accepted. They allow water to get soiled easily, however, and require frequent cleaning.

Give your glider the following portions of food each day:
 
Food Portion 1: One tablespoon of fresh fruit, such as apple, kiwi, pear, banana, honeydew, papaya, grape, cantaloupe, watermelon, mango or blueberry. Wash fruit thoroughly to remove dirt and pesticides before offering them to sugar gliders.

Food Portion 2: One tablespoon of fresh or frozen vegetables, such as tomatoes, sweet potatoes, green beans, shredded carrot, squash, or pumpkin, mixed sprouts, lettuce (not iceberg), broccoli or parsley. Wash vegetables thoroughly to remove dirt and pesticides before offering them to sugar gliders.
 
Food Portion 3: One tablespoon of nectar mix (i.e. Leadbeater's mix or other commercially prepared nectar mix for sugar gliders)

Food Portion 4: An unlimited amount of commercial pelleted sugar glider diet or insectavore/carnivore diet, available at all times. 

Food Portion 5:  Insects such as mealworms or other feeder worms, like earthworms or Phoenix worms, available at pet stores. Feed 10 to 12 small, 7 to 10 medium, or 3 to 5 large worms, 3 to 5 gut-loaded crickets per sugar glider per night. Sugar gliders also enjoy other insects such as beetles and grasshoppers. (Only gather insects from outdoors if you are completely certain no insecticides have been used in the area.) Uneaten insects that are still alive in the morning should be returned to their containers.

Feeding a good quality, commercially prepared balanced diet made specifically for sugar gliders is the best way to ensure your small pet is getting the correct ratio of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. You should also add insects, fresh fruits and vegetables daily. To be safe, add a vitamin and mineral supplement to your sugar glider’s diet.

If you prefer to give your sugar glider a homemade diet, a vitamin and mineral supplement is a must. Use vitamin and mineral supplements made specifically for sugar gliders, or you can offer a cat, dog or reptile multi-vitamin with minerals, including calcium but no phosphorus.

Nibble nibble NIBBLE: What to feed your hamster (part 1)

There's a difference between overweight and large in hamsters. A normal-sized Syrian isn't fat, he's just big in size. But a chubby hamster that looks plump even when on his hind legs or stretched out will need some help with his eating issues! Not only can your hamster get very fat, he can also get sick from the food he is fed, so it's important to choose food carefully.

For the pellet diet, feed your hamster good, healthy pellets. OXBOW is a great food for my hamster, but there are several healthy choices out there that don't cost a lot. When you clean out the cage once a week, fill up the hamster's food bowl. Unlike a dog or cat, they don't need to have their bowls refilled every day. Even when it's empty, they still have stashes in their hiding places.

Other foods

For the occasional treat I might slip my hamster a lick of yogurt, cottage cheese, crumble of bread, cracker, or small human treat. I give him a new nibble once a week. Some hamster enthusiasts say hamsters will eat pepperoni or bacon, but this can cause sometimes cannibalism and even cause your hamster to go crazy when they smell any other living flesh (which can be possible).

For a wild treat, instead of giving your hamster meat, give him mealworms. Yep, they come in a can at your pet store. of course, they are sterilized, so don't try picking up one if those under a rock or in the ground. Fresh veggies are a better choice, and can be offered more often. My hamster really loves a baby carrot, but those things can still pack in the pounds. I cut them up in halves and store them back in the fridge. Slices are always better than the whole thing.

Hay?

Hamsters like hay to burrow in, but they don't eat it. IF you have other animals that need Timothy hay, go ahead and give some to your hammie, but guaranteed he won't like it. Hamsters in the wild never ate grass or hay, and domestic hamsters have no need for it.

Stay tuned on

Monday for some more hamster food facts!

Betta-Fish Feeding 101

I know I haven't been talking about my fish lately, so I'd better put him in the spotlight today! When I had written my second post a while back, I realized that I hadn't talked a lot about betta-fish feeding and nutrition, but don't worry. I will educate you about that topic today!

A main diet for your betta(s) varies in size and color. The best recommended food for your betta is BettaMin. It is featured in the picture below.

Bettas all have different tastes. Some prefer a certain flavor or color of food.

Other bettas don't like flakes that slowly fall to the ground. My past betta, Starburst, loved a kind of food called Floating Fish Pellets rather than the other brand. 

Once you have chosen the food, you can now go on and pick some treats, if you like. There are many different treats. Most of them are much bigger than normal food, and they float in the water. One I came across was shaped like a log, and was called Floating Log Nibblers. The fish didn't chow down on it all at once, but they could swim up to it whenever they wished and nibble on it.

Treats don't have to be store-bought to be yummy! Bloodworms and brine shrimp are a nice little snack from time to time. Two bloodworms or one brine shrimp once a week is a good amount for your little betta fish.

Jaws enjoys feeding time!

A small mount of food is just enough.

This food has bits of shrimp in it and has a bright orange color that attracts fish.

The Big O

A problem pet owners face is the daily treat consumption of their small animals--and this can lead to a very, uh, heavy pet. Treats bought in the store cause most of the trouble because owners think that whatever the package says is OK. For example, A mistake I made once was to get the so-called "healthy" treats and follow what the back said was fine to do. Feed up to 4 per day, blah blah blah. I was feeding my bunny treats every day--when they were just meaning in a whole day, not every single day like vitamins or something. But even healthy treats like carrots, apples or celery can make your pet obese. "It isn't always  based on if the food is healthy or not, it's the amount of food you give the pet that counts." a rabbit magazine says.


Processed treats like "Yogies!" or those pet granola chew things are a big no-no for a pet who likes to eat a lot because they just can't say "I'm full". These treats aren't satisfying enough for your small animal to not want to eat anymore and still not be "stuffed". Herbivore's stomachs, especially rabbit's, digest food slowly and sometimes they can become very constipated--that's why hay and grass is vital to their systems. These "junk food" treats can ruin that natural flow that hay supplies, and that leaves the pet with a big stomach-ache. Some pet owners don't even offer treats to their pets--they only give them fresh pellets and hay. Most pet owners I know are curious about those cool-looking treats in the food aisle, and they might try them out once, and even just once is too much. Pets who have never eaten treats before have always been thinking there was was nothing better tasting than good ol' hay and dry pellets, but when the owner introduces treats, the pet could neglect his daily diet and just want treats.

To avoid making that mistake that many owners make, don't give treats that are fatty to your pet, because you'll be left with wasted money and a very chubby small animal on your hands!

Guinea Pig Nutrition and Diet

    If you've been thinking about getting a furry friend to add to your family that doesn't need a lot of exercise, is cuddly and friendly, and will be exciting to take care of, choose a guinea pig!! These adorable little guys are unlike other rodents that climb and run around the room, but they are more likely to want to sit in your lap while you read a book or watch TV. If you already own one, or are going to get one soon, read this post all about food and nutrition!

Main Diet

Guinea pigs mainly eat dry guinea pig food, the best kind is usually Oxbow because they don't have any unhealthy colored dyes that some brands use to make the food look more interesting. Oxbow also offers hay, and some healthy, natural hay-based treats for guinea pigs. Never buy treats that say "for rabbits, guinea pigs, gerbils and hamsters", only buy the ones that are specially for guinea pigs, because they have different needs, so therefore, they eat different things.

What Can and Can't I feed my Guinea Pig?

Fresh food is a must in your guinea pig's health, but sometimes we don't know exactly what is OK for them. In a book, they say cauliflower is okay, and another unknown resource states it isn't. Here is a list of the Do's and Don't's of what you should avoid and what you should feed your guinea pig. Don't worry, the research I did was completely safe and perfectly fine for your piggie.

                                                                                               Yuck!:

                                                                                                 

                                                                                               Iceberg Lettuce

                                                                                               Cauliflower

                                                                                               Potato Skins

                                                                                          Raw Beans(dry kidney beans..pinto beans...)

                                                                                           Potato Chips or other processed human food

                                                                                            No store brand Yogurt treats like "Yogies!"

                                                                                             (guinea pigs cannot digest dairy)

                                                                                             Any Non-Guinea pig food (like 

                                                                                              hamster food, gerbil food, rat food...etc...) 

                                                                                                 Any type of meat--raw or cooked

                                                                                                Popcorn--it can get stuck in the pig's throat

                                                                                                 Cheese

                                                                                                    Sugary Foods

                                                                                                      Coffee, chocolate, tea, or alcohol 

                                                                                                         Onions

                                                                                     
                                       

 

      Yum!:                                                                             

Semi-Sweet Peppers 

Cucumbers

Spinach-3 leaves maximum

Bananas

Parsley--If you tear it up near your guinea pig's

cage, he'll love the smell!

Carrots

Apples--just be sure there isn't any seeds in it!!

Broccoli--A small piece

Banana Slices

Dandelion Greens

Cherry tomatoes--don't give him too many, 

they have a very large amount of citrus in them!!

These lists cannot cover even half of what a guinea pig can and can't have. Go to Smallanimalchannel.com/guinea pig nutrition to see a bigger list of foods for guinea pigs!

Daisy's Fun Facts:

Hey, did you know that guinea pigs' ears turn reddish-pink when they are hot?

That's my fact, folks, and I am Daisy the Rabbit signing out. Goodbye!!!

       

Remember to Give your Ferret Water!!

                                             One of the most important things you need to live: water. Animals, humans, all living beings need water. Your ferret should have water available at all times, so check it everyday and rinse the bottles out before you refill!!


What To Use, What To Use..... 

Ugh! It's time to choose pet supplies for your pet ferret. The next thing on your list says "water container".
You walk down the aisle, the whole half of the aisle is filled with water bottles, special bowls, and even some strange things you wouldn't dare give your ferret. What do you pick?? The first thing to do is choose a durable, thick plastic water bottle or bowl. Ceramic bowls are better than plastic because the ferrets can't topple them over. Purchase the best one that will last you as long as your ferret.


When Water Is Not Water


There are four types of water: Tap, bottled, distilled, or filtered water.

Distilled water is created using the distillation process(boiling the water and re-condensing the steam into liquid water). This removes all impurities, minerals, and nutrients in the water. It should be avoided because it usually causes hair loss, which is often associated with certain mineral deficiencies.

Tap water can be filled with chlorine or build-up, which cakes the sides of the necks of the bottle. Imagine what it could do to the inside of your ferret!!

Filtered water, water filtered by special containers you can buy in the store, is the best bet for your ferret.
Bottled Spring water can also be used, but just be sure to read the label on the back!

For More Ferret Heath Tips, go to:    www.smallanimalchannel.com/ferrets , and look for the Diet section to learn about ferret water tips. (there's also some fun stuff to read and do, so go check it out!!!)