Cavies Outdoors? Why It Simply Cannot Be Done

There are many good reasons why an outdoor guinea pig isn't a great idea. I know last time I posted, I included a bit of info on why the cage location for your cavy shouldn't be outdoors. GuineaLynx, a popular cavy website on health and care states, "Do not house your cavies outside: Temperature fluctuations can be very hard on your guinea pigs. Predators sometimes break into cages. A guinea pig inside will receive better care as you will catch health problems more quickly."

And here is another great website link that thoroughly describes this. http://guineapigsaustralia.com/oudoor%20housing.htm

And a UK website has a very nice statement in an article I've read:

"Indoor guinea pigs can have a spacious cage custom built around or over your furniture and storage. Indoor cages smell less without all that wood soaking up urine. Hutches do smell faster, and guinea pigs have much more sensitive noses than we do - they love to be clean. An indoor cage can be placed in a living room or other busy room and they will adjust their times of sleep to coincide with yours and your working hours. They will get excited and greet you even when they don't want fed. They will follow you around the room, come to fetch you from another, and most importantly of all, from all this observation you can spot illnesses far more quickly.

Guinea pig care and medical knowledge has improved drastically in the last 10 years, even in the last 5 years. Library books and vets are out of date, even the animal welfare organisations that bend over backwards for larger animals are failing smaller animals, including guinea pigs.

Just ask yourself this. Would you keep your cats or dogs in wooden boxes in your garden?

Guinea Lynx, Cavy Spirit, and Guinea Pig Cages all advocate indoor guinea pig living. Doing a search on any of the forums will provide you with plenty of the sad stories of illness and death that have befallen outdoor guinea pigs, on a far bigger scale than any of the illnesses we all sadly come across in any guinea pig."

Finally, there are several links I'll give you from the news about the dangers of outdoor piggie living(all supplied from the above UK website).

Dangers of Outdoor Housing:
Summer is Coming. Should You House Your GP Outside?
Outdoor vs Indoor
UK GP housed outside dies of heatstroke
GPs stolen from outdoor cage
2 GPs in outdoor cage killed by dog (on Animal Precinct)
HAWK, drops guinea pig in someone's yard
Violent thugs batter family pets to death
Thread about people breaking into outdoor hutches and sheds
2 guinea pigs stolen from outdoor shed
Guinea pig attacked by rats in shed
Magpies attacking GPs in their outdoor hutches
4 GPs dead. Cause is a suspected mouse infestation in shed and garden
Ant infested yard and hutches
Warning for those keeping animals(outside) I accidently cut that part off. LOL.

Guinea pigs stolen from "Cavy Sanctuary"
GPs stolen from outdoor garden
More Guinea pigs die of heatstroke
Guinea Pig Killed by Cat
Guinea Pigs Being Attacked by Cat

Alright. Here are the described reasons I wrote.

First of all, there's the temperature issue. Outdoors it is much too cold or hot for your pet guinea pig, and is is nearly impossible to keep your cavy warm enough. Why is the temperature such a big deal? The hair of a guinea pig is no thicker than the hair on a human head. And as we all know from being made to wear hats in the autumn and winter as small children, that hair doesn't keep you very warm! On top of that, guinea pigs lack the ability to sweat, meaning that when they heat up they have no physical way of cooling themselves down again. The death rate of pigs kept outside in summer, or even left unattended in a run is sadly high.

If you have not read my post (about guinea pig safety), it says that 

The link to the US Department of Agriculture site is here: http://awic.nal.usda.gov/final-rules-animal-welfare-9-cfr-parts-1-2-and-3

You will find several parts about outdoor housing which includes the part about guinea pigs. It's hard to find, but it's there.

I looked for outdoor guinea pig laws in Canada, Austrailia, the UK, etc, but all I found was several laws that had a lot to do with crossing the borders and such. When you cross Canada's border you must register guinea pigs and rabbits and other small animals, and I know for Austrailia you MUST have your bunny in quarantine before they can travel with because there has recently been myxomatosis(bunny disease) outbreaks in Austrailia. I found things like that but I couldn't find any outdoor guinea pig laws. 

Guinea pigs can literally die overnight from heatstroke. They have sensitive skin and their fur can make them very hot.

This picture is of a guinea pig suffering heatstroke. He is not dead, and if his owner acts quickly by wrapping him in a towel soaked in cool water, he may live. (By the way, this is a spitting image of my guinea pig, Iggy! Just realized that)

An overheated guinea pig will lie in water bowls and drink excess water.

Not just heat can kill a piggie. Guinea pigs don't tolerate cold as well as rabbits do. They have no fur on their feet and their ears are very sensitive.

A guinea pig that looks like this may be too cold - 

Huddling together and the fur with a ruffled appearance is a sure sign of a cold cavy. A shaking pig is also a sign of being too cold.

Guinea pigs do much better indoors because it is just too difficult to keep them warm or cool. Guinea pigs have much more of a health risk because of this reason than their indoor counterparts.

Next reason is, predators. The below image shows a very spacious, secure hutch. Most hutches like this are. 

So, why are us guinea pig enthusiasts so concerned about predators? Guinea pigs are incredibly shy, sensitive animals. Just the mere sight of a fox or coyote near the hutch, or a raccoon trying to open a latch or tear at the fencing can kill a guinea pig. They will run in a frenzy, wheeking and squeaking, trying to escape the predator. Sometimes the predator is the one who kills the cavy, other times they just die in fright. They can literally get a heart attack, leaving puzzled owners wondering why the guinea pig is found dead without a scratch.

Next reason is parasites. Guinea pigs can easily get little bugs like fleas, ticks, and even intestinal parasites brought on by feral cats and dogs nearby. If you have an outdoor guinea pig, it is guaranteed that they have some sort of bug.

This is a guinea pig with a flea problem:

Gross, huh? Then here's another picture of a guinea pig that unfortunately got ticks as well as ringworm. Guinea pigs indoors don't get these type of parasites unless there's another infected pet, then they do have a possibility of getting these nasty blood-sucking parasites.

Next reason is a quickie. Guinea pigs are much healthier indoors anyways, but if they do get sick, their owners can spot the problem right away. Outdoor guinea pigs aren't easy to care for - it can be hard to go outside to care for them everyday. No person can stay outside for as long as they can inside.

Here's a very important reason: outdoor guinea pigs receive much less attention than indoor piggies. They are bored with lack of human attention. Did you know - 

That's right. Three hours! Guinea pigs need tons of human interaction to be healthy and happy - even more if they are kept single.

So, after reading this, what do you think of keeping a guinea pig outdoors? It's not just for good health, there's really no reason to keep a companion animal if you're going to keep it outside away from you. You'll never get to enjoy the popcorning, the funny antics, and the joy of keeping pigs as pets. 

Guinea Pig Housing

Most cages marketed for guinea pigs are way too small. Learn how to provide your pig with appropriate room to roam.

Why size matters

Guinea pigs are one of the largest rodents kept as pets and yet their typical cage is only marginally roomier than housing for much smaller pets like hamsters and gerbils. Most guinea pig cages on the market are the same size as the commercial "rabbit cages"(which by the way, are Wayyyyy too small for rabbits. Read our posts about rabbit housing and pens for more info) but have

a platform or two molded in plastic.

These pictures here are common examples and should be avoided.

While small animal cages often utilize vertical space to increase living area and encourage climbing, digging and burrowing, guinea pigs rely on floor space. 

Ramps and platforms at low heights provide variety, but guinea pigs need room to exercise, even with daily playtime outside of the cage. 

Also, our piggie friends are not tunneling creatures like hamsters and therefore cannot climb vertical tube systems, loops and loops of tall climbing stimulation and plastic to mimic the elaborate underground tunnels of hamsters and gerbils in the wild. 

Below are some more photos of faulty cages..

This cage is also wayyyyy too small!

For many years, the industry standard has been approximately 2 square feet per guinea pig, but this provides barely enough room for a nest, bathroom area, and food and water. GuineaPigCages.com, a well-respected website for guinea pig owners refers to this cage size as "a glorified litter box."

The website, created by Cavy Spirit Rescue, offers the following guidelines for the ratio of guinea pigs to their cage size:

One guinea pig:  7.5 square feet cage (minimum), but more is better; generally 30" x 36" is a good size.
Two guinea pigs:  7.5 square feet (minimum), but 10.5 square feet is preferred; generally 30" x 50" is a good size.
Three guinea pigs: 10.5 square feet (minimum), but 13 square feet is preferred; generally 30" x 62" is a good size.
Four guinea pigs: 13 square feet (minimum), but more is better; generally 30" x 76" is a good size.

An airy, large, amazing guinea pig cage that is a picture of perfect!

Benefits to your guinea pig

Roomier cages offer many advantages that will be enjoyed by both you and your pig:

• Larger cages are one of the most basic types of enrichment you can provide. Guinea pigs can live 5-7 years and can become bored and depressed without adequate stimulation. Imagine spending your whole life in a walk-in closet. Even with occasional breaks, life would be pretty dreary.
• Adequate room to exercise means that your guinea pigs are less likely to develop medical conditions such as heart disease, diabetes, bumblefoot, and anal impaction.
• With a roomier enclosure, guinea pigs can exercise on their schedule, not yours. Guinea pigs tend to be most active in the morning and evening when it may not be convenient to take them out for playtime.
• Larger digs increase the likelihood of peaceful co-existence among multiple guinea pigs (and since guinea pigs are social animals, they do best when housed together).
• Larger cages are actually easier to clean because they prevent the build-up of waste and allow guinea pigs to separate their bathroom area from other activities.
• With the opportunity to express a wider range of natural behaviors, your guinea pigs will be happier and it will be easier to get to know their personalities.

Some other benefits..Courtesy of GuineaPigCages.com

 

Benefits of MORE SPACE

 Exercise in General

The health benefit of exercise for guinea pigs is significant. Like humans, overweight guinea pigs have a higher tendency toward health problems, including heart disease, diabetes, bladder infections, respiratory problems, bumblefoot, and more.

Adult males can develop a condition called impaction -- a loss of muscle tone in the anal area, causing their droppings to get 'backed up' and require periodic cleaning by their guardians. A large cage with ample room for exercise can help keep your guinea pig toned and fit.

Adult females tend to put on weight in their belly as they get older. It's more difficult to find and diagnose ovarian cysts and other related problems in females when they are overweight.

 Exercise on Their Schedule

Not yours. Even if you provide an ample amount of floor time every day, your guinea pigs need to be able to exercise and explore on their own body clocks. Guinea pig activity tends to be an hour "on" and an hour "off." Many are particularly active in the morning and evening -- not necessarily at times that are convenient for you. If they have a large enough cage, they can exercise whenever they choose.

 Stimulation

Like people, guinea pigs get bored living in the same old small cage hour after hour, day after day, year after year with nothing much to do. It would be like 'being sent to your room' forever, only your room is the size of a walk-in closet and that becomes your life. You have to entertain yourself, eat, sleep, and 'go to the bathroom' all in that small space -- until you die. Even if you are hauled out and allowed to 'play' with some other species periodically, it's a mind-numbing, dreary existence.

 Keeping the Peace

If you have two or more non-breeding or same-sex guinea pigs (as you should, since they are social animals), it helps keep them happy with each other if they have enough room to run and play and to get away from each other when they choose.

 Easier to Clean

Believe it or not, a larger cage is much easier to clean and keep clean than the smaller pet store or commercial cages. You can read other people's experiences in the Testimonials and find out more about how to clean the cage on the cleaning page. And an easier to clean cage for you means you'll love your guinea pigs that much more over the years.

 More Fun for You

Happy guinea pigs are more entertaining and well-adjusted guinea pigs. Healthy guinea pigs means fewer vet visits, worries, and bills. Easy-to-maintain guinea pigs means a happier relationship with your animals. You'll spend less time cleaning and more time enjoying them and your life, especially knowing they are doing so well and you are doing the right thing by them.

Bed time

Though widely sold as appropriate bedding for small animals, cedar and pine shavings are NOT recommended due to chemicals which they both contain. Instead, buy bedding made from paper.  Provide enough bedding so that it is between 2-3 inches deep, so that absorption is maximized. Also make sure you have an area for a guinea pig igloo or grass hut for the cavies to sleep in since piggies like covered sleeping quarters.

Location is key

Once you've selected the right housing for your guinea pigs, you’ll need to determine where in your home they will live. Here are some factors to consider:

Temperature: The ideal temperature range for guinea pigs is approximately 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Guinea pig housing should be located away from strong heat sources such as direct sun, wood stoves, fireplaces and heating vents. Guinea pigs cannot sweat when they become too warm and are particularly susceptible to heat stroke.

Don't put your guinea pig’s cage in an unheated room, breezeway, garage or other chilly location. Place the cages in a draft-free area (e.g. away from doors and windows and on an elevated surface). 

Guinea pigs don’t do well under humid conditions. Dampness promotes the growth of mold in their hay and bedding and can make guinea pigs more prone to sickness.

This cage is placed by a hot fireplace, and this is not an ideal place to put a guinea pig cage.

Activity level: Guinea pigs enjoy being near family activity and benefit from more attention when they’re easy to see and hear. A family room or living room works well, but make sure your pigs have a place to retreat if they need some quiet time.

Noise: Guinea pigs have very sensitive hearing and their cages should not be placed next to stereos, televisions or other loud noises.

Reasons to avoid the great outdoors

An outdoor hutch was once considered acceptable housing for guinea pigs. But keeping a pet outside robs them of regular interaction with the family. Out of sight, out of mind. But we've come a long way from this thinking, in part because the disadvantages for guinea pigs are so clear.

• Outdoor guinea pigs suffer extremes of weather and temperature
• Outdoor guinea pigs are at risk from predators such as hawks and foxes
• Hutches, which are usually made of wood, can be more difficult to clean and disinfect
• A guinea pig's health often deteriorates quickly once she becomes sick, and illnesses may go undetected without regular handling.

The wind has knocked over this small guinea pig hutch.

And this cage here is another example of why guinea pigs should not be housed outdoors. The fox is a common predator to cavies that live outdoors, as well as rabbits. 

Amazing House Rabbit Pen Setups

I love seeing other house bunny owners ideas for rabbit cage setups. If you want to get good ideas to create a better living environment for your rabbit, you can look at these photos I collected. Then you can hop on over to some website info I collected.

What to Consider for an Indoor Rabbit Pen

When considering getting an indoor rabbit pen, there are many arrangements that are possible. It is important that the style of indoor housing pen for your house rabbit is an appropriate option, both for you and your pet.

Contrary to many a belief, rabbits don't need to be kept in a cage. What you may want to have is a pen area in which your rabbit has freedom, yet is kept safe. It's important that your rabbit get daily indoor or outdoor exercise, and is supervised by you.

Rabbits make such delightful pets - I've owned and fostered rabbits - and it's only natural that we want to include them in our home. Let's take a look at the options for keeping your pet rabbit(s) happy and safe in your home.

Inside The Pen

Essential to any rabbit pen are basic rabbit supplies, such as food bowls (one for veggies/fruit, one for pellets), a water bowl (more natural for rabbit than a bottle), and a litter box with litter.

Also, to keep your rabbit healthy and happy, you need to provide it with rabbit toys in its pen. Provide your rabbit with safe toys for mental stimulation and physical activity. Things to climb in, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, toss around, and chew on are some options.

Ideas for what to put in a rabbit pen include:

-Cardboard box, for crawling inside, jumping on, and chewing
-Cardboard rolls, such as from paper towel and toilet paper
-Tunnels and tubes
-Untreated wicker baskets or boxes
-Magazines or newspaper
-Cat toys, such as Batta balls
-Parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from the cage
-Dried pine cones
-Hand towel, for bunching and scooting
-Untreated and aged wood, twigs, logs
-Untreated sea grass or maize mats

Recommended indoor rabbit cages with front door access, so your rabbit can jump in and out on its own accord. Also including indoor rabbit pens.
Super Pet My First Home for Rabbits  $36.99 - $160.99	Marshall Chalet Small-Animal House  $110.00	MARCHIORO CAGE TOMMY 102 BEIGE  $89.99
GoGo Pet Products High Epoxy Exercise Pen w...  $79.92
24H" x 24" 8 Panel GoGo Black Epoxy Exercis...	Marshall Pet Products Pet Deluxe Play Pen, ...  $66.58	Ware Manufacturing Canvas 8-Panel Clean Liv...  $31.99
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This is amazing. The wood pieces add an amazing touch and this looks great! I can't tell if he's a free range rabbit or not, but you can always close off a thing like this with puppy pens.

These three lucky buns have loads of room and plenty of cool wood things. I advise you go to the website here posted in the picture. There's lots of bun fun, and great info. I cannot really tell how they did this whole setup, but you can certainly pull off something similar with a different pen.

This however, is not good. I thought this was a pen in the image but it is really a small wire cage. This could be an alternative for super small dwarf bunnies, but the rabbit should have plenty of exercise. 

This is also very small for the rabbit in the photo, but it may suit a dwarf breed.

Apologies for the faulty images my house bun friends. The cat looks into these pens, watching his bunn-emies. See what I did there? These supposedly double pens are spacious and equally good-looking. Love these.

I now cringe at the terrible quality that my computer cannot fix. This is a cube cage. Learn more about these things at www.rabbitapproved.com. There should be a sidelink about rabbit pens.

This pen is also a good size. It's nice for single buns but multiple bunnies should have a much larger one!

Pen or Cage Options for Your Pet House Rabbit -It's Rabbit Week!

Recently I discussed the location of your rabbit's cage, but I have gotten so MANY requests for some ideas and guidelines for creating the perfect "rabbitat." 

Cages = a bad choice?

If you go the cage route, you need something that goes with the rabbit's breed and age. A cage with multiple ramps makes for a faulty cage if you are using it for a large or old rabbit, whereas a smaller spry, young rabbit may fit better with that option. I do not recommend cages very much, only because they are so expensive and so small. All cages have wires on the bottom, and ones that don't have any are "starter kits." Not only that, the cages are harder to clean.

Some Prefer Pens

 I love puppy pens because there is easier clean-up(sweep out and DONE) and the rabbit gets more access to your daily life. Another reason I love pens because you can generally conform them to particular shapes creatively, and the one I use was cheaper. The pen can be left open for free-range rabbits; a smaller pen can be used solely for a safe hideaway for a rabbit, or it can be put out for the rabbit to stay in at night. I am a rabbit-pen-user at heart. They are comfortable, spacious, the rabbit has more access to your life, inexpensive, perfect for bunn-proofing, and easy to clean. Pens tend to give better ventilation and even if your rabbit is shy, you can find some creative ways to have a proper in-pen hut or shelter for the rabbit to retreat to. 

Before starting....

Remember that although I do not prefer cages, some environments and households can find a way to use cages while still keeping the rabbit happy. Check both options first before deciding cages are a bad idea. Overall, cage, pen, WHATEVER, you always should purchase the best option for your rabbit, not for you. I know people don't like pens because they are big and don't look pretty, but (along with showing off your love for rabbits) it doesn't matter if the housing choice doesn't look good, it's the safety and comfort for the rabbit(and other household members) that counts!

Not a Rodent!

Even people who gravitate towards rabbits positively, still think rabbits are rodents. They are lagamorphs, meaning "hopping creature". Cage-whise, rabbits should only have cages just for them. Not ferrets, not rats, NOT chinchillas.... RABBITS! Even the most energetic rabbit cannot climb in the way a rodent could, so why would you give them a cage with ramps and ledges that only rodents can climb?

Pawse to consider- Rabbit's feet are JUST fur!

Another reason I don't like cages is because of the wire bottoms. Both rabbits are recovering from minor sore hocks(due to past cage-living history) and even in the pens, they have 24/7 resting pads and towels for comfort. They have no pads on the feet. Just thick hair! It's very important to consider a rabbit's feet when choosing a cage.

Hutches - No point!

No house rabbit owner I have met keeps their rabbits in a hutch. Hutches are MEANT to keep rabbits protected from harsh weather and predators, which they have no exposure to inside. Most hutches are off the ground, which I would find a problem when I open the pens to let them play and explore to their extent. Plus, all hutches are covered except for the mesh doors. This may provide protection for their outdoor counterparts, but all rabbits should be exposed and open to people walking and talking o rdin the home, which these types of habitats lack incredibly. PLUS, these expensive hutches are generally small and cause urine burn. All hutch residing rabbits are shy, and whenever the door is opened they will run to the back of the hutch, unexcited and frightened. 

A final word

Whenever choosing a rabbitat, remember to consider the rabbit's needs and desires before choosing one on impulse because it looks "fancy" or "cool." The rabbits house is the most important part of your rabbit purchases. Remember to do research and think like a rabbit for housing options.

Continue the entire week with Rabbit Week: a fun critter post extravaganza!

Rats + outdoor playing/living = a good idea?🐁

Whether you're an experienced rat owner or a first-time rat owner, you may wonder... "Could I let my rat go outside to play?" The answer varies with different websites, but the right answer is always clear. Rats playing or living outdoors is not safe!

Harnesses and Pens: Extreme Danger

Everyone's seen them. Rat harnesses look fun, but pose a threat to rats. First of all, if you put on the rat harness the wrong way or it has been designed poorly so it feels uncomfortable, your rat will want to escape the harness's feeling on his body. He's likely to chew or squeeze out, leaving you with no more rat. Predators like birds of prey or feral cats and dogs could scare your rat as well, causing him to panic and get twisted in the harness. So it's closing for the harness idea, but what about other playtime solutions, like a playpen?

A rat owner who knows rats well doesn't have to use their own experience with pet rats to know that all rats are great climbers! Obviously, any open-top playpen would be too easy for an intelligent rat. Closed-top playpens look safe, but even a sturdy one couldn't keep out unwanted predators, dangerous parasites, and worst of all, heat. Besides, for a few minutes the fresh air would seem nice to a rat, but it would quickly get boring and very hot. An ideal way to let your rat get a bit of fresh air is to carry his cage onto a clean, covered deck or patio and sit out with him for no more than 10 minutes. Never take him out of the cage even for a minute, as any predator could spook him. 

Can I keep my rat cage outdoors?

Inexperienced, first-time rat owners may think keeping a rat outdoors is okay. As many people think all rabbits and guinea pigs belong outdoors, rats are put into this concept. Although rabbits and guinea pigs can normally survive outside,(although the boredom they encounter is considered cruelty) rats will become sick and/or the first few days of outdoor living.

Not only will your rat(s) need attention and human contact, he will also get sick from parasites, heat exhaustion, and exposure to wild rodents, which he could transfer diseases from and pass them to other people or domestic animals. A rat outdoors is no fun for the owner because they will only go out to clean the cage and give him food and water, and the owner will not get to experience the benefits of a great pet rat. Any animal relegated to a hutch or outdoor confinement will be bored and act boring towards the owner. Besides, how can you create fun mazes, train your rat to do cool tricks, and relax in front of the TV with your rat if he lives outside? A true rat owner wouldn't keep a rat outside to die, but he or she would want to create a great environment for the rat and help him have the best 3-4 years he lives up to. No form of outdoor living can top the tremendous love a rat can offer when living inside with his family. Rats don't live that long, do its up to you to help him live his life to the fullest. Be sure to keep your pet rat indoors when having him as a pet. There really is no point in getting a rat if he is left outdoors, because all you are doing is keeping him alive if he's left outside. Be a good pet owner and keep all pet rats indoors only. You will be rewarded with a happy rat that can fully experience the best life you can give him.

I mean, what life is without cuddles, kisses, and a happy, healthy pet rat ready to be your best friend? Not any life I know! 

The placement of your rat's cage is very important!