Guinea Pig Housing

Most cages marketed for guinea pigs are way too small. Learn how to provide your pig with appropriate room to roam.

Why size matters

Guinea pigs are one of the largest rodents kept as pets and yet their typical cage is only marginally roomier than housing for much smaller pets like hamsters and gerbils. Most guinea pig cages on the market are the same size as the commercial "rabbit cages"(which by the way, are Wayyyyy too small for rabbits. Read our posts about rabbit housing and pens for more info) but have

a platform or two molded in plastic.

These pictures here are common examples and should be avoided.

While small animal cages often utilize vertical space to increase living area and encourage climbing, digging and burrowing, guinea pigs rely on floor space. 

Ramps and platforms at low heights provide variety, but guinea pigs need room to exercise, even with daily playtime outside of the cage. 

Also, our piggie friends are not tunneling creatures like hamsters and therefore cannot climb vertical tube systems, loops and loops of tall climbing stimulation and plastic to mimic the elaborate underground tunnels of hamsters and gerbils in the wild. 

Below are some more photos of faulty cages..

This cage is also wayyyyy too small!

For many years, the industry standard has been approximately 2 square feet per guinea pig, but this provides barely enough room for a nest, bathroom area, and food and water. GuineaPigCages.com, a well-respected website for guinea pig owners refers to this cage size as "a glorified litter box."

The website, created by Cavy Spirit Rescue, offers the following guidelines for the ratio of guinea pigs to their cage size:

One guinea pig:  7.5 square feet cage (minimum), but more is better; generally 30" x 36" is a good size.
Two guinea pigs:  7.5 square feet (minimum), but 10.5 square feet is preferred; generally 30" x 50" is a good size.
Three guinea pigs: 10.5 square feet (minimum), but 13 square feet is preferred; generally 30" x 62" is a good size.
Four guinea pigs: 13 square feet (minimum), but more is better; generally 30" x 76" is a good size.

An airy, large, amazing guinea pig cage that is a picture of perfect!

Benefits to your guinea pig

Roomier cages offer many advantages that will be enjoyed by both you and your pig:

• Larger cages are one of the most basic types of enrichment you can provide. Guinea pigs can live 5-7 years and can become bored and depressed without adequate stimulation. Imagine spending your whole life in a walk-in closet. Even with occasional breaks, life would be pretty dreary.
• Adequate room to exercise means that your guinea pigs are less likely to develop medical conditions such as heart disease, diabetes, bumblefoot, and anal impaction.
• With a roomier enclosure, guinea pigs can exercise on their schedule, not yours. Guinea pigs tend to be most active in the morning and evening when it may not be convenient to take them out for playtime.
• Larger digs increase the likelihood of peaceful co-existence among multiple guinea pigs (and since guinea pigs are social animals, they do best when housed together).
• Larger cages are actually easier to clean because they prevent the build-up of waste and allow guinea pigs to separate their bathroom area from other activities.
• With the opportunity to express a wider range of natural behaviors, your guinea pigs will be happier and it will be easier to get to know their personalities.

Some other benefits..Courtesy of GuineaPigCages.com

 

Benefits of MORE SPACE

 Exercise in General

The health benefit of exercise for guinea pigs is significant. Like humans, overweight guinea pigs have a higher tendency toward health problems, including heart disease, diabetes, bladder infections, respiratory problems, bumblefoot, and more.

Adult males can develop a condition called impaction -- a loss of muscle tone in the anal area, causing their droppings to get 'backed up' and require periodic cleaning by their guardians. A large cage with ample room for exercise can help keep your guinea pig toned and fit.

Adult females tend to put on weight in their belly as they get older. It's more difficult to find and diagnose ovarian cysts and other related problems in females when they are overweight.

 Exercise on Their Schedule

Not yours. Even if you provide an ample amount of floor time every day, your guinea pigs need to be able to exercise and explore on their own body clocks. Guinea pig activity tends to be an hour "on" and an hour "off." Many are particularly active in the morning and evening -- not necessarily at times that are convenient for you. If they have a large enough cage, they can exercise whenever they choose.

 Stimulation

Like people, guinea pigs get bored living in the same old small cage hour after hour, day after day, year after year with nothing much to do. It would be like 'being sent to your room' forever, only your room is the size of a walk-in closet and that becomes your life. You have to entertain yourself, eat, sleep, and 'go to the bathroom' all in that small space -- until you die. Even if you are hauled out and allowed to 'play' with some other species periodically, it's a mind-numbing, dreary existence.

 Keeping the Peace

If you have two or more non-breeding or same-sex guinea pigs (as you should, since they are social animals), it helps keep them happy with each other if they have enough room to run and play and to get away from each other when they choose.

 Easier to Clean

Believe it or not, a larger cage is much easier to clean and keep clean than the smaller pet store or commercial cages. You can read other people's experiences in the Testimonials and find out more about how to clean the cage on the cleaning page. And an easier to clean cage for you means you'll love your guinea pigs that much more over the years.

 More Fun for You

Happy guinea pigs are more entertaining and well-adjusted guinea pigs. Healthy guinea pigs means fewer vet visits, worries, and bills. Easy-to-maintain guinea pigs means a happier relationship with your animals. You'll spend less time cleaning and more time enjoying them and your life, especially knowing they are doing so well and you are doing the right thing by them.

Bed time

Though widely sold as appropriate bedding for small animals, cedar and pine shavings are NOT recommended due to chemicals which they both contain. Instead, buy bedding made from paper.  Provide enough bedding so that it is between 2-3 inches deep, so that absorption is maximized. Also make sure you have an area for a guinea pig igloo or grass hut for the cavies to sleep in since piggies like covered sleeping quarters.

Location is key

Once you've selected the right housing for your guinea pigs, you’ll need to determine where in your home they will live. Here are some factors to consider:

Temperature: The ideal temperature range for guinea pigs is approximately 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Guinea pig housing should be located away from strong heat sources such as direct sun, wood stoves, fireplaces and heating vents. Guinea pigs cannot sweat when they become too warm and are particularly susceptible to heat stroke.

Don't put your guinea pig’s cage in an unheated room, breezeway, garage or other chilly location. Place the cages in a draft-free area (e.g. away from doors and windows and on an elevated surface). 

Guinea pigs don’t do well under humid conditions. Dampness promotes the growth of mold in their hay and bedding and can make guinea pigs more prone to sickness.

This cage is placed by a hot fireplace, and this is not an ideal place to put a guinea pig cage.

Activity level: Guinea pigs enjoy being near family activity and benefit from more attention when they’re easy to see and hear. A family room or living room works well, but make sure your pigs have a place to retreat if they need some quiet time.

Noise: Guinea pigs have very sensitive hearing and their cages should not be placed next to stereos, televisions or other loud noises.

Reasons to avoid the great outdoors

An outdoor hutch was once considered acceptable housing for guinea pigs. But keeping a pet outside robs them of regular interaction with the family. Out of sight, out of mind. But we've come a long way from this thinking, in part because the disadvantages for guinea pigs are so clear.

• Outdoor guinea pigs suffer extremes of weather and temperature
• Outdoor guinea pigs are at risk from predators such as hawks and foxes
• Hutches, which are usually made of wood, can be more difficult to clean and disinfect
• A guinea pig's health often deteriorates quickly once she becomes sick, and illnesses may go undetected without regular handling.

The wind has knocked over this small guinea pig hutch.

And this cage here is another example of why guinea pigs should not be housed outdoors. The fox is a common predator to cavies that live outdoors, as well as rabbits. 

Pet Rabbits and the Many uses for Newspaper

I love newspaper. I use it all the time, yet never read it. How? I use it for my rabbit Daisy all the time! Here are some of those uses for yesterday's news. 

The bottom of your rabbit's pen or cage

I line my rabbit pen with newspapers nearly all the time. It looks nice, and the rabbits chew and destroy it, make tunnels, etc. It's very easy to scoop up any offending poop pellets that didn't make it to the litter box (these oftentimes get stuck onto my buns feet when scattered around) or hay your rabbit threw all over the pen - just take the newspapers with the poop and hay in them, and toss them! No more sweeping up constantly, and definetely no wrinkled noses when friends come over. You see, my rabbits are not spayed or neutered, and the fixing help get rid of those territorial droppings. They sometimes are found scattered in the cage, which usually makes people who come over think twice when I've told them my rabbits are litter trained. This has nothing to do with litter box training by the way, it's just a way the bunns say, " this is my pen, just for you to know!" We sweep out the rabbits pens and change the newspapers about ever other day, but it's still nice to remove any little messes we find during daily care.

Tunnels, nesting and playing

Bunnies love to tunnel, hide, and destroy - and newspaper is the perfect thing for them! It's comical to watch rabbits run playfully through the paper and is amazing to watch the piles of newspaper you put in their pens or cages turn into an intricate nest or several tunnels in a day. If you have a hidey box or nesting box or even a bunny igloo, then you can fill it with newspapers. The rabbit will pad it down and make a nice nest out of it! It's also a better alternative to animal nesting cotton, which is dangerous to your pet if he ingests it.

Litter boxes

I use CareFRESH bedding frequently, but those other times I like to line the litter box with newspaper. It absorbs the urine fairly well, and doesn't have a lot of dust. Plus, if the rabbit eats it, they won't get a blockage as they could with other litters.

Extra fiber

To test if your local newspaper is safe for your pet to eat, take a piece of white copy paper and hold it underneath your newspaper. Run water onto the newspaper, and see if the ink runs onto the paper. If it does, then the news company uses the traditional way of printing and uses traditional ink. Not safe for bunns to ingest large quantities!!! But if the ink does not run onto the paper, then it is safe. If your pet rabbit has runny dry, poops, give him plenty of Timothy hay for fiber that will help his digestive tract. Newspaper can help this a too, but should never be substituted for hay. Just avoid the sleek magazine pages as best you can. Too many of these clog up your rabbit and make him sick.

More interesting updates - Daisy pictures, Bunny(and various critter) Blogger news, and other stuff like that

Hi.......Again!

It's always fun to do these update things and everyone seems to like them. First update - Daisy pictures. I didn't really have a lot of these on hand - new ones at least. She's in her pen now so I took a picture while I had the chance. 

( I also put in a ceramic bowl for water and gravity feeder for food and I like them much better! In the future I might put water in the gravity feeder instead because the water bowl is kind of small)

Here is another picture. 

I use boxes a lot in my bunny pen, as you can see.

"Well, duhh!"

Next thing is the daily comic - This time Minnie wants to show you her new doggie coat! I am against dressing animals up if they don't like it, but she seems perfectly fine with it.

She looks really fashionable in it! And more importantly it keeps her warm due to her shorter coat.

Next we have some bunny news. From Houseful Of Rabbits... 

http://houseofrabbits.blogspot.com/2013/11/some-chilly-coming.html

I so agree......

Then from Cute Overload....http://cuteoverload.com/2013/11/20/this-just-in-kleenex-alert-people/

Kleenex alert!!! Read a sad-happy story at Cute Overload. 

Finally, we have a poll - and it'll stay up until Christmas! Please check it out and cast your vote. 

Bye!

Critter Q&A: Dwarf Hamster Bonding?

Q: I have a baby dwarf hamster, and I am looking for another to stick in the same cage. Is this a good idea?

A: Dwarf hamsters often enjoy the company of another dwarf hamster, so it’s a reasonable question to ask. This is not an option with Syrian hamsters, as they are very territorial and will fight and possibly kill other hamsters in their vicinity.

In general, when pairing same-sex dwarf hamsters the younger the better. Same-sex adults aren't always so easy to pair. Most adult dwarf hamsters will accept a youngster as a cagemate. A gentle, male, adult dwarf hamster is particularly likely to bond with a male, dwarf hamster youngster.

Here are some guidelines for doing the introduction:
1. Never plop a dwarf hamster into another hamster's cage. They both must be moved to a clean, neutral area with no other scents on the cage, bedding or accessories.

2. It's best if the dwarf hamsters meet on neutral turf outside a cage so you have quick access if there's danger. Possible neutral areas include the bathtub, a big box, your bed or a blocked-off area of the floor. Set out some tubes and toys and treats, but nothing that allows one hamster to corner and trap another; no boxes with only one end open, for example. The hamsters can explore and play, and eventually they'll check out one another. Petting them and talking to them is fine, but handle both of the hamsters equally.

3. Expect to let the hamsters scuffle. Once you put them together, you won't separate them again unless it's for real. No play dates or visits in advance. After the hamsters have played together outside the cage, eaten together, and you've seen no violence, move them to the cage. Make sure you have at least two of everything in their shared cage: two nest houses, two wheels, two food dishes, two water bowls. This helps reduce the chance of bullying.

4. The hamsters may bat at each other or roll and tussle. This is normal, but watch for lengthy tussles, squealing or any actual wounds. Guard against cornering in toys, and watch that neither hamster keeps the other from food, water or rest.

5. The only time to separate a newly formed pair is when they get exercise ball time, and even then it’s best to put them in their balls at the same time in the same area. Don't handle one hamster without handling both. Keeping their scents consistent is really important. If they’re females, be very careful not to leave any trace of scent of a male on them during handling.

Things to avoid:
• Pairing hamsters when you won't be around to observe them closely for a few days.
• The smell of the opposite sex on anything the hamsters encounter, especially you.
• Any spots where one hamster can corner the other.
• Starts and stops in the hamster pairing. No "visits" beforehand.
• Handling one hamster without the other as they begin to bond.

It’s wonderful that you’re thinking of getting your dwarf hamster a friend. Follow these guidelines, and you’ll have a good chance at success. Be prepared for the possibility that it won’t work out, however, and have an extra cage handy. You’ll already have all the accessories!

Ferret toys 101

The holidays are coming and all good little ferrets are dreaming of toys and treats under the tree. As a ferret parent, how do you choose the right toys for your pet? Are the toys safe? Does your ferret like them? How can you tell?

Ferret Safety Comes First
To determine if a toy is safe for your ferret, examine it carefully before you buy it. Don’t buy toys that have small pieces that can be chewed off and swallowed. Rubber toys are especially dangerous for ferrets. Chunks that seem likely to pass through the intestine often don’t because the rubber reacts with the strong acids in the ferret’s stomach and swell up to almost twice their original size, making surgery the only option to get them out. A determined ferret can destroy even hard English rubber.

If it is a plush toy, watch out for plastic eyes or noses that are sewn or glued on. Ferrets can easily chew these off. If these parts are swallowed, they can cause an obstruction in the stomach or intestines and your ferret may need surgery to remove the pieces. Make sure that all of the seams are well-sewn and that the toy is made from a durable fabric.

If your ferret is prone to chewing on fabric, then hard plastic toys are your best bet. In addition to toys made specifically for ferrets, try giving your ferret hard plastic jingle balls, whiffle golf balls, baby rattles and even Ping-Pong balls. These can be a lot of fun for your pet and not break the bank. A word of caution though, some toys labeled for ferrets are might not be as safe for your pet as they should be. Use the same criteria in picking a toy labeled for ferrets as you would any other pet toy.

Picking Out Ferret Toys
If your ferret has had toys before, then you probably already know some of its likes and dislikes. If this is your first holiday together, then buy a variety of toys so that your ferret has a choice. Some ferrets like toys that they can carry around. Small, sturdy stuffed animals or plush dog toys are great for this type of ferret.

Other ferrets like toys that they can chase, such as balls or self-propelled toys. If you choose a self-propelled toy, make sure it isn’t too powerful so it the toy doesn’t injure your ferret.

Some ferrets like toys that make noise. Toys with jingle bells inside them or toys that talk or make sounds can be the perfect gift for this type of ferret.

Presenting The Gift To Your Ferret
Set the toy on the floor and see if your ferret shows any interest. Make sure that you do this after other family members are done opening their presents or your ferret may be too distracted to check out its new toy. If it doesn’t come over on its own to check the toy out, gently toss the toy in front of your ferret, but not right to it. This way it will not perceive the toy as a threat.

Eventually, your ferret’s curiosity should kick in and it will inspect its new toy. Roll or toss the toy a few more times to show your ferret what the new toy can do. If your ferret still doesn’t show any interest, don’t despair. Your ferret just might not be in the mood to play at this time. If your ferret still doesn’t show interest within a couple of days, put the toy aside and try again at a later date.

Rotating Toys Versus Buying New Toys
Just like children, ferrets get bored with their toys. If you see that your ferret has stopped playing with some of its toys, take them away and store them in a box or bag. Get your ferret some new toys and let your ferret play with those until it gets tired of them, then switch back to the old toys.

You can also do things to the old toys to make your ferret think that they are new. Try putting a scented candle in the box with the old toys. The toys will pick up some of the scent of the candles and pique your ferret’s interest. Floral or sweet scents are best. Don’t use anything spicy. Never spray your ferret's toys with air freshener or liquid fragrances. Many air fresheners and scented oils can be toxic if your ferret licks the toys and ingests the product. A safe alternative is to rub your ferret’s toys with some powdered bouillon or toss a couple of dog treats in the bag or box where you store your ferret’s toys.

Time To Toss A Toy
Most toys wear out after a while and must be tossed out. Any toys that have been excessively chewed, have parts falling off, have exposed stuffing or are cracked can be hazardous to your pet. Even if it is your ferret’s favorite toy, toss it. You can usually find a similar toy to replace it. If your ferret shows intense interest in a toy when you first buy it, go buy an extra one so you have a replacement toy ready for when the time comes to toss the first one.

Buying duplicate toys can also be helpful if two or more of your ferrets like the same toy. They will still try to steal the toys from each other, but at least there are better odds of appeasing everybody.

I have never seen ferrets actually fight over a regular toy, but I have seen them sneak toys back and forth from each other. The only toys that I have seen ferrets fight over are edible toys, such as Cheweasels and Foamy Fries. Don’t expect your ferrets to share these. Either cut the treat into pieces and give a piece to each ferret or give each ferret a whole one to chew on; otherwise you will not have any peace in your home.

Some ferrets like hard chew toys like Nylabones. The Petite Nylabones and the chew rings are safe for ferrets and never seem to wear out.

Here’s wishing you a very Happy Holiday and a New Year full of fun, family and ferrets, and below there is more about ferret games and playtime for your ferrety friends.

No matter how many toys you get for your ferret, one of his favorite toys is always going to be you, his owner. There are a variety of fun activities and games that you and your ferret can engage in to make playtimes even more fun. The best games are those that stimulate his instincts and innate abilities and encourage his natural behaviors.

The games that ferrets love to play are somewhat similar to those that a toddler would like - chase, hide-and-seek, exploring new places and things, and other similar activities. If given the chance, ferrets love games and activities that allow them to make a mess, such as digging and rolling in dirt, sand, and other materials. They also enjoy mock combat and tug-of-war. Many of their games end with their playthings being stashed in their "secret" toy spot, whether the plaything is a jingle ball or your car keys!

But what do all of these games tell us about our ferrets?

• Chase and hide-and-seek games mimic their hunting, predatory behavior in the wild.
• Exploring new places and things caters to their need for variety and stimulates their curiosity.
• Digging and rolling around in the dirt is similar to their natural tunneling behaviors.
• Mock combat and tug-of-war games stimulate your ferret's natural hunting behaviors.

So what are some specific games you can play with your ferret? Here are a few examples that will give you a place to start gathering ideas for fun games of your own.

A-Maze-ing Fun
You can purchase a playground kit or glue a bunch of cardboard boxes together and cut holes between them. Once you have your maze, hide treats and toys throughout the maze, and then place your ferret in the maze.

Snorkeling for Toys
Fill your ferret's digging box with his favorite materials (long grain rice, shredded paper, dirt, etc) and hide toys in it. As he uncovers the toys, he'll get even more excited searching for more.

Fishing for Ferrets
Use a toy like the Da Bird Feather Toy that has a fun toy suspended from a plastic stick by a string, and drag it slowly across the floor, teasing your ferret. Watch his hunting instinct go into overdrive as he chases, attacks, and tries to carry off his "prey!"

Tag
Chase your ferret around the room and "tag" him, then turn and make him chase you. Once he catches you, turn around to chase him again. If you can, get down on your hands and knees so you can be at his level when you do this.

The Towel Game
This refers to two different kinds of games. The first way to play with towels is to use it for tug-of-war with your ferrets. Rope toys can also be used. They will have a blast trying to pull the towel away from you so they can stash it with the rest of their prizes and toys.

Another version of the towel game involves getting your ferret interested in the towel by waving it around his head and teasing him with it, then waiting until he jumps on it and drags it around the room. Ferrets love this game, and you can either give them rides around the room or pull them a short way and then flip them off the towel. We guarantee they'll come back war dancing!

Seasonal Fun
This is a variation of the snorkeling for toys game, and it's a great way to pull in ferrets' need for new scents and experiences. If it snows in your area, bring some snow inside in a big plastic tub, and let them snorkel in it. You can also hide toys if you'd like. Another way to give them some seasonal fun is to bring in some fallen leaves during the autumn and allow them to dig, tunnel and throw them around. You can also place tubing, like the Super Thru Way, inside the box.

Ferret Trampoline
Place your ferrets on your bed, and use the blankets, sheets and pillows to toss your ferrets in the air, cover them up, flip them over, and in general roughhouse with them. This is an especially fun game when you have two humans and multiple ferrets, as you can really get a trampoline effect going on with the sheets!

Pillow-fight
Gently drop a small pillow on top of your ferret so he can kick it up in the air and throw it around. You can also slide your ferret into the pillowcase and play with him through it. Just be careful that you don't get any nips if he gets a little overexcited!

The Ferret Indy 500
If you have remote control cars, your ferrets will have a blast chasing them around the room, knocking them over, and attacking them. Just be sure to check them before playtimes for any loose parts or things that your ferrets could ingest so you can remove them.

Happy Human War Dance
Many of you probably know that your ferret does a little dance called the "happy weasel war dance" during which he jumps back and forth, dooking and trying to get you to play with him. But did you know that you can do this dance as well? You can, as long as you don't mind getting strange looks from your neighbors. Simply jump back and forth, making little dooking noises with your mouth and waving your arms around, and watch your ferret come after you!

These are just a few examples of games that you can play with your ferret; there are so many more that you can come up with as you spend more time with your ferret and see what he likes to play with the most. Just remember, no matter what the activity, make sure it involves his natural instincts and abilities, and you two will have a great time playing!

Cavies and Hay: It's important!

Hay -- Vital to Good Health

Grass hay is a staple of the guinea pig diet. Providing unlimited grass hay is one of the best things you can do for the health of your cavy. Unlimited hay: 

     Provides the necessary fiber required by herbivores' digestive systems 
     Keeps teeth properly ground. 

Because the back teeth are continually growing, cavies need to be constantly grazing and grinding to keep them a good length. Since hay is only a modest source of protein and nutrients it does not contribute significantly to obesity. 

Alfalfa hay (a legume hay) is much higher in protein, calcium and carbohydrates and is primarily fed to young pups and pregnant or nursing cavies. Healthy cavies, who are often already be eating an alfalfa based pellet, do not benefit from alfalfa hays. Some guinea pigs prone to stones or suffering from specific medical illnesses should not be fed calcium rich hays. 

Be sure your guinea pigs have hay 24/7.

Small Bags or Bales?

Many guinea pig owners buy small bags of hay at a pet store and dole it out sparingly to their animals. Purchasing larger quantities means it is available for bedding and food at reasonable cost. Space limitations may mean that although economical, a bale is not practical. But if you can, by all means purchase your hay in quantity. 

Purchasing grass hay by the bale can be an inexpensive way to offer them all they desire. A bale can last as food and bedding for several months and reportedly retains its nutritional value if stored properly for a couple years. 

Another alternative to purchasing small bags or bales (if you do not have good hay locally or a place to store it) is purchasing a large box online. KMS Hayloft has great bluegrass and other hays at a reasonable cost. 

Hay racks are a good way to contain hay in the piggie cage.

Selecting Hay

Locating good quality hay can be a challenge. You may find leads to a farm or stable with high quality hay by calling your extension service or talking to a forage expert at a local farm supply. Horse owners are notoriously picky about the quality of hay they provide their animals and may be another source. The best hays are: 
     Harvested before blossom or heading. 
     Very leafy (poorer quality hays are more stemmy) 
     Have the natural green color of the crop 
     Fragrant (it will smell clean, no moldy/musty or burnt smell; not dusty) 
     Very soft and pliable 
     Free of trash, weeds, dirt and other foreign material 

As the hay moves into early blossom or early heading, to late and the final seed stage (stemmy) much of the nutritional value goes into seed production. Soft pliable hay is much safer for your pet also, as stiff stems can and do cause injuries. The first harvest of hay is generally called the first cut. This hay has been slowly and irregularly growing throughout the winter. The second harvest (second cut) is usually more uniform. Farmers balance yield and quality in deciding when to harvest the crop. Weather conditions may affect optimum harvest time. The Oxbow Hay Company has information on its site explaining hay quality. 

This below is fresh hay (left) next to dry, bad hay.

The next picture is moldy hay.

Nutritional Content

Most grass hays are basically similar in nutritional value. Some hays will be more palatable than others. Timothy and orchard grass hays are favorites. As long as whatever grass hay you have found is of high quality, it will probably be suitable for your cavy. 

The Hay Chart provides general calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium values for a variety of grass hays and legume hays, like alfalfa. Note the high calcium and protein content of alfalfa and clovers. When available, information was provided for hays in various stages of growth. Note that young hays provide more protein than midbloom and mature hays. 

Important for you to know

Not giving guinea pigs unlimited Timothy Hay around the clock is a big mistake. Many people don't seem to know that guinea pigs NEED hay. 

Many people buy the hay they find at the pet store, the most commonly found packaged hay is Alfalfa hay. Many people buy Alfalfa hay because that is what the pet store people told them to buy. Alfalfa hay should only be given to pregnant mothers and growing babies. Alfalfa hay has too much calcium and other nutrients which can cause bladder stones in caviesTimothy hay helps their digestive system and is the best way to help keep their molars ground down and healthy.

Deer Hunting Season, Corn Harvesting(whatever this is called) and Bunny-Blogging News! (Plus a lot of other random critter stuff!)

We have corn all around our house, and the front corn is being cut down. 

It's very exciting to see it be cut down by the interesting tractor equipment, but a lot of deer like to sleep in it, so they dart out when the tractors go through cutting down the corn. 

Please be very careful when driving by a corn patch to avoid accidents with deer and car collisions. 

Since I've made my first point, I'd like to move on. But first, here are some pictures (actually just one)of the tractors (not sure what these are really called but whatever) cutting down the corn.

A decent picture of our view of the.... tractor...harvesting..vehicles... Whatever they are called. Don't ask me.

Back to my next announcement - which is that I just wanted to tell all of our deer hunter friends to have a great hunting season!

 Can't wait to see if our deer hunting blind gets used this week.

 We already had lots of deer run into our already deer-infested yard due to the corn-cutting-down. 

Including three does rampaging into our backyard and breaking our horse pen, and a huge buck running with a humongous corn stalk tangled in his antlers. Quite a comical sight. 

Moving on to another announcement - a lot of hilarious antics are going on at Houseful Of Rabbits! (Sooooo... Check it out!!! ) (www.houseofrabbits.blogspot.com)  

And at Life With Reno Rabbits.... Gerald has passed away... ): 

Visit Life with Reno Rabbits for more info on sweet bunn Gerald.

Let's go to some better news. At

http://www.disapprovingrabbits.com/, the authors announced their arrival home. 

You decide if the look on Dougal's face is disapproval or not! (:

I also have something any bunny owner may be interested in. If you live in or nearby Minnesota (wish I did, this thing looks fun!) your rabbit would love to go to Hoppy Hour, a fun playtime session for lots of rabbits in the organization called Minnesota Companion Rabbit Society. The website is http://mnhouserabbit.org

and it has all the information you need to know about Hoppy Hour. From what I read the only requirements is your rabbit needs to have a clean bill of health, and should be spayed or neutered(for obvious reasons and because they are less prone to fight with other bunns when spayed or neutered). Here's the info I pasted below:

Hoppy Hour

Bring your bunny for a chance to play with other bunnies! You are sure to have a great time watching all the bunnies and talking with other bunny lovers. On the bunny "playground" will be a few small agility obstacles for the buns to enjoy, but this is not a class. Mostly, its just a time to hang out and enjoy the cuteness of bunnies at play.

In order to participate, rabbits have to be sterilized and free of illness. Admission is $3/rabbit, but people are free and have just as much fun! Check the events calendar for dates and locations. There is no need to register, but if you are are a first-time attendee wanting to join us at the South Saint Paul location, please contact us to get the address and directions.

This sounds like loads of fun and your rabbits will certainly love this. Also it's such a coincidence that disapproving rabbits.com takes their bunns here and even had a few pictures for us.

As for our own pet rabbits, Daisy and Lily are both healthy and happy. I put a big stick in Daisy's pen for her to gnaw on, and apart from the noise of her chewing away at it and the cleanup of some wood pieces strewn all over, it's great! 

She says hello. 

Got a bit of snow yesterday, and a bit more on Monday, and it's been really cold. 

I also picked up the next books in the Warriors series today. I had to force myself to put them down long enough to do Critter Corner which is almost impossible - these books are unputdownable! But of course I had to post something so I did stop reading.

Power of Three -  Outcast

Very good installment of the ongoing series! I'm proud of myself that I got to Power Of Three already! 

This is the third book. I also got book four and five just in case - but these ones seem thicker than The New Prophecy, so I hope I have time to read all of them. 

Oh and whoever did not read the post about mice socialization please do. It was published after the one before it, for some reason, sorry. 

As for Minnie, she is sleeping.

Close up

Finally, I got a request a while ago about what rabbit food and hay I used.

 We use Oxford Timothy Hay(never alfalfa) and we just got Purina Rabbit Chow.

 Anyone considering getting this brand, read on. 

I love it because it's good quality, and the rabbits obviously do. The store-brand food we got just a while back was the same formula as the guinea pigs and hamsters. Bad for bunnies, though! We love Purina Rabbit Chow. 

It's very healthy and both bunnies have no more icky poop covered bottoms. This was an issue with the store-brand food - the food messes up the digestive systems and they get wet mushy poop stuck in their bottom fur. This is not only smelly but rubs off on clothes, and looks gross. Plus, the poor rabbits probably got lots of tummy pains and aches. "Gastrointestinal upset", it's called. So we got the new food. The price poses no issue for me - what matters is whether it's good quality and healthy or not. But still, it was a great price! 10 bucks for this size. Plus there are no colored dye "nuggets" in here or added treats, which is bad for bunnies. What I'm talking about is those little hard colored things in the rabbit food. The bag looks like this - It's called Complete. 

  

You probably notice the pellets are a little thinner than other pellets. I noticed that too. 

(Not how much there is actually in a bag, the other half is in a plastic container.) 

The bag even came with a feeding instruction tag - most rabbit foods don't do this. 

So I hoped you enjoyed my update post. I love doing these since they are so fun! 

Here's the re posted lists of products that do and don't test on animals. Just wanted to put it out there again.

Here Is A list of Brands that test on animals. It's obviously not a complete list but I will add onto it later on.


Aveeno
Avon
Banana Boat
Bounty
Cetaphil
Clearasil
Clinique 
Clairel
Coppertone
Covergirl
Dawn
Dove
Estée Lauder
Garnier
Glade
Herbal Essentials
Huggies
Hydroxatone
Johnson+Johnson-S.C.
Kaboom
Kleenex
Listerene
Lysol 
Lo'real
Maybelline
Mars Candy
Neutrogena
Olay
Oscar de larenta 
Oxiclean
P&G
Pantene
Post-it's 
Pledge
Pixi
Ralph Lauren
Revlon
Resolve
Scotch
Scott
Sephora
Sensodyne
Vaseline
Vicks
Windex
Woolite




Here's the other one: 

Yeah, I know. This is a short list. There's many more products out there. I'll be sure to add onto this one too. Okay guys, and listen, New York Color (NYC)is so confusing so I won't add it because their website never clarifies they REALLY do not test. Also several vegan websites state emails they sent inquiring about the testing were never replied.


100% pure
Acne Free
Almay
Avalon
Bare Essentials
Beauty Without Cruelty
Benifit
Bio-Oil
Blistex
Burt's Bees
Cerave
E.L.F
Eucerin
Free And Clear
GloMinerals
Gold Bond
Jergens
Nivea
Philosophy
Proactive Sol.
Revive
Sally Hansen
Sea Breeze
Simple
Bath &Body Works(Specially marked products)
Tre'semme




To see if they test of not, there is a symbol of a rabbit (the international poster child) that states cruelty free or says "not tested". Some products that do test say, FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE AND SAFETY WE TEST OUR PRODUCTS or some other thing like that. Remember, just because something says All Natural doesn't mean it helps nature or animals. Thats a common mistake when searching for only cruelty free products. I really have gotten into making others aware of testing on animals and how terrible it is even past April. It's especially horrible if you have a pet yourself and couldn't imagine anyone doing that to an animal.

My list was just of super common things that people have in their homes. (If you are unsure about New York Color you can do more research but from what I've seen it looks like the nail polish company does test.)

Edit: I can't delete the link to PETAs website and the Beauty wi/o bunnies from PETA.  I just won't paste it here. I don't choose to support PETA because they euthanize 99% of their rescued animals. Not always humanely either. Anyways, thank you for your support at Aprils Animal Cruelty Month at my blog! (: