Ferret toys 101

The holidays are coming and all good little ferrets are dreaming of toys and treats under the tree. As a ferret parent, how do you choose the right toys for your pet? Are the toys safe? Does your ferret like them? How can you tell?

Ferret Safety Comes First
To determine if a toy is safe for your ferret, examine it carefully before you buy it. Don’t buy toys that have small pieces that can be chewed off and swallowed. Rubber toys are especially dangerous for ferrets. Chunks that seem likely to pass through the intestine often don’t because the rubber reacts with the strong acids in the ferret’s stomach and swell up to almost twice their original size, making surgery the only option to get them out. A determined ferret can destroy even hard English rubber.

If it is a plush toy, watch out for plastic eyes or noses that are sewn or glued on. Ferrets can easily chew these off. If these parts are swallowed, they can cause an obstruction in the stomach or intestines and your ferret may need surgery to remove the pieces. Make sure that all of the seams are well-sewn and that the toy is made from a durable fabric.

If your ferret is prone to chewing on fabric, then hard plastic toys are your best bet. In addition to toys made specifically for ferrets, try giving your ferret hard plastic jingle balls, whiffle golf balls, baby rattles and even Ping-Pong balls. These can be a lot of fun for your pet and not break the bank. A word of caution though, some toys labeled for ferrets are might not be as safe for your pet as they should be. Use the same criteria in picking a toy labeled for ferrets as you would any other pet toy.

Picking Out Ferret Toys
If your ferret has had toys before, then you probably already know some of its likes and dislikes. If this is your first holiday together, then buy a variety of toys so that your ferret has a choice. Some ferrets like toys that they can carry around. Small, sturdy stuffed animals or plush dog toys are great for this type of ferret.

Other ferrets like toys that they can chase, such as balls or self-propelled toys. If you choose a self-propelled toy, make sure it isn’t too powerful so it the toy doesn’t injure your ferret.

Some ferrets like toys that make noise. Toys with jingle bells inside them or toys that talk or make sounds can be the perfect gift for this type of ferret.

Presenting The Gift To Your Ferret
Set the toy on the floor and see if your ferret shows any interest. Make sure that you do this after other family members are done opening their presents or your ferret may be too distracted to check out its new toy. If it doesn’t come over on its own to check the toy out, gently toss the toy in front of your ferret, but not right to it. This way it will not perceive the toy as a threat.

Eventually, your ferret’s curiosity should kick in and it will inspect its new toy. Roll or toss the toy a few more times to show your ferret what the new toy can do. If your ferret still doesn’t show any interest, don’t despair. Your ferret just might not be in the mood to play at this time. If your ferret still doesn’t show interest within a couple of days, put the toy aside and try again at a later date.

Rotating Toys Versus Buying New Toys
Just like children, ferrets get bored with their toys. If you see that your ferret has stopped playing with some of its toys, take them away and store them in a box or bag. Get your ferret some new toys and let your ferret play with those until it gets tired of them, then switch back to the old toys.

You can also do things to the old toys to make your ferret think that they are new. Try putting a scented candle in the box with the old toys. The toys will pick up some of the scent of the candles and pique your ferret’s interest. Floral or sweet scents are best. Don’t use anything spicy. Never spray your ferret's toys with air freshener or liquid fragrances. Many air fresheners and scented oils can be toxic if your ferret licks the toys and ingests the product. A safe alternative is to rub your ferret’s toys with some powdered bouillon or toss a couple of dog treats in the bag or box where you store your ferret’s toys.

Time To Toss A Toy
Most toys wear out after a while and must be tossed out. Any toys that have been excessively chewed, have parts falling off, have exposed stuffing or are cracked can be hazardous to your pet. Even if it is your ferret’s favorite toy, toss it. You can usually find a similar toy to replace it. If your ferret shows intense interest in a toy when you first buy it, go buy an extra one so you have a replacement toy ready for when the time comes to toss the first one.

Buying duplicate toys can also be helpful if two or more of your ferrets like the same toy. They will still try to steal the toys from each other, but at least there are better odds of appeasing everybody.

I have never seen ferrets actually fight over a regular toy, but I have seen them sneak toys back and forth from each other. The only toys that I have seen ferrets fight over are edible toys, such as Cheweasels and Foamy Fries. Don’t expect your ferrets to share these. Either cut the treat into pieces and give a piece to each ferret or give each ferret a whole one to chew on; otherwise you will not have any peace in your home.

Some ferrets like hard chew toys like Nylabones. The Petite Nylabones and the chew rings are safe for ferrets and never seem to wear out.

Here’s wishing you a very Happy Holiday and a New Year full of fun, family and ferrets, and below there is more about ferret games and playtime for your ferrety friends.

No matter how many toys you get for your ferret, one of his favorite toys is always going to be you, his owner. There are a variety of fun activities and games that you and your ferret can engage in to make playtimes even more fun. The best games are those that stimulate his instincts and innate abilities and encourage his natural behaviors.

The games that ferrets love to play are somewhat similar to those that a toddler would like - chase, hide-and-seek, exploring new places and things, and other similar activities. If given the chance, ferrets love games and activities that allow them to make a mess, such as digging and rolling in dirt, sand, and other materials. They also enjoy mock combat and tug-of-war. Many of their games end with their playthings being stashed in their "secret" toy spot, whether the plaything is a jingle ball or your car keys!

But what do all of these games tell us about our ferrets?

• Chase and hide-and-seek games mimic their hunting, predatory behavior in the wild.
• Exploring new places and things caters to their need for variety and stimulates their curiosity.
• Digging and rolling around in the dirt is similar to their natural tunneling behaviors.
• Mock combat and tug-of-war games stimulate your ferret's natural hunting behaviors.

So what are some specific games you can play with your ferret? Here are a few examples that will give you a place to start gathering ideas for fun games of your own.

A-Maze-ing Fun
You can purchase a playground kit or glue a bunch of cardboard boxes together and cut holes between them. Once you have your maze, hide treats and toys throughout the maze, and then place your ferret in the maze.

Snorkeling for Toys
Fill your ferret's digging box with his favorite materials (long grain rice, shredded paper, dirt, etc) and hide toys in it. As he uncovers the toys, he'll get even more excited searching for more.

Fishing for Ferrets
Use a toy like the Da Bird Feather Toy that has a fun toy suspended from a plastic stick by a string, and drag it slowly across the floor, teasing your ferret. Watch his hunting instinct go into overdrive as he chases, attacks, and tries to carry off his "prey!"

Tag
Chase your ferret around the room and "tag" him, then turn and make him chase you. Once he catches you, turn around to chase him again. If you can, get down on your hands and knees so you can be at his level when you do this.

The Towel Game
This refers to two different kinds of games. The first way to play with towels is to use it for tug-of-war with your ferrets. Rope toys can also be used. They will have a blast trying to pull the towel away from you so they can stash it with the rest of their prizes and toys.

Another version of the towel game involves getting your ferret interested in the towel by waving it around his head and teasing him with it, then waiting until he jumps on it and drags it around the room. Ferrets love this game, and you can either give them rides around the room or pull them a short way and then flip them off the towel. We guarantee they'll come back war dancing!

Seasonal Fun
This is a variation of the snorkeling for toys game, and it's a great way to pull in ferrets' need for new scents and experiences. If it snows in your area, bring some snow inside in a big plastic tub, and let them snorkel in it. You can also hide toys if you'd like. Another way to give them some seasonal fun is to bring in some fallen leaves during the autumn and allow them to dig, tunnel and throw them around. You can also place tubing, like the Super Thru Way, inside the box.

Ferret Trampoline
Place your ferrets on your bed, and use the blankets, sheets and pillows to toss your ferrets in the air, cover them up, flip them over, and in general roughhouse with them. This is an especially fun game when you have two humans and multiple ferrets, as you can really get a trampoline effect going on with the sheets!

Pillow-fight
Gently drop a small pillow on top of your ferret so he can kick it up in the air and throw it around. You can also slide your ferret into the pillowcase and play with him through it. Just be careful that you don't get any nips if he gets a little overexcited!

The Ferret Indy 500
If you have remote control cars, your ferrets will have a blast chasing them around the room, knocking them over, and attacking them. Just be sure to check them before playtimes for any loose parts or things that your ferrets could ingest so you can remove them.

Happy Human War Dance
Many of you probably know that your ferret does a little dance called the "happy weasel war dance" during which he jumps back and forth, dooking and trying to get you to play with him. But did you know that you can do this dance as well? You can, as long as you don't mind getting strange looks from your neighbors. Simply jump back and forth, making little dooking noises with your mouth and waving your arms around, and watch your ferret come after you!

These are just a few examples of games that you can play with your ferret; there are so many more that you can come up with as you spend more time with your ferret and see what he likes to play with the most. Just remember, no matter what the activity, make sure it involves his natural instincts and abilities, and you two will have a great time playing!

Cavies and Hay: It's important!

Hay -- Vital to Good Health

Grass hay is a staple of the guinea pig diet. Providing unlimited grass hay is one of the best things you can do for the health of your cavy. Unlimited hay: 

     Provides the necessary fiber required by herbivores' digestive systems 
     Keeps teeth properly ground. 

Because the back teeth are continually growing, cavies need to be constantly grazing and grinding to keep them a good length. Since hay is only a modest source of protein and nutrients it does not contribute significantly to obesity. 

Alfalfa hay (a legume hay) is much higher in protein, calcium and carbohydrates and is primarily fed to young pups and pregnant or nursing cavies. Healthy cavies, who are often already be eating an alfalfa based pellet, do not benefit from alfalfa hays. Some guinea pigs prone to stones or suffering from specific medical illnesses should not be fed calcium rich hays. 

Be sure your guinea pigs have hay 24/7.

Small Bags or Bales?

Many guinea pig owners buy small bags of hay at a pet store and dole it out sparingly to their animals. Purchasing larger quantities means it is available for bedding and food at reasonable cost. Space limitations may mean that although economical, a bale is not practical. But if you can, by all means purchase your hay in quantity. 

Purchasing grass hay by the bale can be an inexpensive way to offer them all they desire. A bale can last as food and bedding for several months and reportedly retains its nutritional value if stored properly for a couple years. 

Another alternative to purchasing small bags or bales (if you do not have good hay locally or a place to store it) is purchasing a large box online. KMS Hayloft has great bluegrass and other hays at a reasonable cost. 

Hay racks are a good way to contain hay in the piggie cage.

Selecting Hay

Locating good quality hay can be a challenge. You may find leads to a farm or stable with high quality hay by calling your extension service or talking to a forage expert at a local farm supply. Horse owners are notoriously picky about the quality of hay they provide their animals and may be another source. The best hays are: 
     Harvested before blossom or heading. 
     Very leafy (poorer quality hays are more stemmy) 
     Have the natural green color of the crop 
     Fragrant (it will smell clean, no moldy/musty or burnt smell; not dusty) 
     Very soft and pliable 
     Free of trash, weeds, dirt and other foreign material 

As the hay moves into early blossom or early heading, to late and the final seed stage (stemmy) much of the nutritional value goes into seed production. Soft pliable hay is much safer for your pet also, as stiff stems can and do cause injuries. The first harvest of hay is generally called the first cut. This hay has been slowly and irregularly growing throughout the winter. The second harvest (second cut) is usually more uniform. Farmers balance yield and quality in deciding when to harvest the crop. Weather conditions may affect optimum harvest time. The Oxbow Hay Company has information on its site explaining hay quality. 

This below is fresh hay (left) next to dry, bad hay.

The next picture is moldy hay.

Nutritional Content

Most grass hays are basically similar in nutritional value. Some hays will be more palatable than others. Timothy and orchard grass hays are favorites. As long as whatever grass hay you have found is of high quality, it will probably be suitable for your cavy. 

The Hay Chart provides general calcium, phosphorus, and magnesium values for a variety of grass hays and legume hays, like alfalfa. Note the high calcium and protein content of alfalfa and clovers. When available, information was provided for hays in various stages of growth. Note that young hays provide more protein than midbloom and mature hays. 

Important for you to know

Not giving guinea pigs unlimited Timothy Hay around the clock is a big mistake. Many people don't seem to know that guinea pigs NEED hay. 

Many people buy the hay they find at the pet store, the most commonly found packaged hay is Alfalfa hay. Many people buy Alfalfa hay because that is what the pet store people told them to buy. Alfalfa hay should only be given to pregnant mothers and growing babies. Alfalfa hay has too much calcium and other nutrients which can cause bladder stones in caviesTimothy hay helps their digestive system and is the best way to help keep their molars ground down and healthy.

Deer Hunting Season, Corn Harvesting(whatever this is called) and Bunny-Blogging News! (Plus a lot of other random critter stuff!)

We have corn all around our house, and the front corn is being cut down. 

It's very exciting to see it be cut down by the interesting tractor equipment, but a lot of deer like to sleep in it, so they dart out when the tractors go through cutting down the corn. 

Please be very careful when driving by a corn patch to avoid accidents with deer and car collisions. 

Since I've made my first point, I'd like to move on. But first, here are some pictures (actually just one)of the tractors (not sure what these are really called but whatever) cutting down the corn.

A decent picture of our view of the.... tractor...harvesting..vehicles... Whatever they are called. Don't ask me.

Back to my next announcement - which is that I just wanted to tell all of our deer hunter friends to have a great hunting season!

 Can't wait to see if our deer hunting blind gets used this week.

 We already had lots of deer run into our already deer-infested yard due to the corn-cutting-down. 

Including three does rampaging into our backyard and breaking our horse pen, and a huge buck running with a humongous corn stalk tangled in his antlers. Quite a comical sight. 

Moving on to another announcement - a lot of hilarious antics are going on at Houseful Of Rabbits! (Sooooo... Check it out!!! ) (www.houseofrabbits.blogspot.com)  

And at Life With Reno Rabbits.... Gerald has passed away... ): 

Visit Life with Reno Rabbits for more info on sweet bunn Gerald.

Let's go to some better news. At

http://www.disapprovingrabbits.com/, the authors announced their arrival home. 

You decide if the look on Dougal's face is disapproval or not! (:

I also have something any bunny owner may be interested in. If you live in or nearby Minnesota (wish I did, this thing looks fun!) your rabbit would love to go to Hoppy Hour, a fun playtime session for lots of rabbits in the organization called Minnesota Companion Rabbit Society. The website is http://mnhouserabbit.org

and it has all the information you need to know about Hoppy Hour. From what I read the only requirements is your rabbit needs to have a clean bill of health, and should be spayed or neutered(for obvious reasons and because they are less prone to fight with other bunns when spayed or neutered). Here's the info I pasted below:

Hoppy Hour

Bring your bunny for a chance to play with other bunnies! You are sure to have a great time watching all the bunnies and talking with other bunny lovers. On the bunny "playground" will be a few small agility obstacles for the buns to enjoy, but this is not a class. Mostly, its just a time to hang out and enjoy the cuteness of bunnies at play.

In order to participate, rabbits have to be sterilized and free of illness. Admission is $3/rabbit, but people are free and have just as much fun! Check the events calendar for dates and locations. There is no need to register, but if you are are a first-time attendee wanting to join us at the South Saint Paul location, please contact us to get the address and directions.

This sounds like loads of fun and your rabbits will certainly love this. Also it's such a coincidence that disapproving rabbits.com takes their bunns here and even had a few pictures for us.

As for our own pet rabbits, Daisy and Lily are both healthy and happy. I put a big stick in Daisy's pen for her to gnaw on, and apart from the noise of her chewing away at it and the cleanup of some wood pieces strewn all over, it's great! 

She says hello. 

Got a bit of snow yesterday, and a bit more on Monday, and it's been really cold. 

I also picked up the next books in the Warriors series today. I had to force myself to put them down long enough to do Critter Corner which is almost impossible - these books are unputdownable! But of course I had to post something so I did stop reading.

Power of Three -  Outcast

Very good installment of the ongoing series! I'm proud of myself that I got to Power Of Three already! 

This is the third book. I also got book four and five just in case - but these ones seem thicker than The New Prophecy, so I hope I have time to read all of them. 

Oh and whoever did not read the post about mice socialization please do. It was published after the one before it, for some reason, sorry. 

As for Minnie, she is sleeping.

Close up

Finally, I got a request a while ago about what rabbit food and hay I used.

 We use Oxford Timothy Hay(never alfalfa) and we just got Purina Rabbit Chow.

 Anyone considering getting this brand, read on. 

I love it because it's good quality, and the rabbits obviously do. The store-brand food we got just a while back was the same formula as the guinea pigs and hamsters. Bad for bunnies, though! We love Purina Rabbit Chow. 

It's very healthy and both bunnies have no more icky poop covered bottoms. This was an issue with the store-brand food - the food messes up the digestive systems and they get wet mushy poop stuck in their bottom fur. This is not only smelly but rubs off on clothes, and looks gross. Plus, the poor rabbits probably got lots of tummy pains and aches. "Gastrointestinal upset", it's called. So we got the new food. The price poses no issue for me - what matters is whether it's good quality and healthy or not. But still, it was a great price! 10 bucks for this size. Plus there are no colored dye "nuggets" in here or added treats, which is bad for bunnies. What I'm talking about is those little hard colored things in the rabbit food. The bag looks like this - It's called Complete. 

  

You probably notice the pellets are a little thinner than other pellets. I noticed that too. 

(Not how much there is actually in a bag, the other half is in a plastic container.) 

The bag even came with a feeding instruction tag - most rabbit foods don't do this. 

So I hoped you enjoyed my update post. I love doing these since they are so fun! 

Here's the re posted lists of products that do and don't test on animals. Just wanted to put it out there again.

Here Is A list of Brands that test on animals. It's obviously not a complete list but I will add onto it later on.


Aveeno
Avon
Banana Boat
Bounty
Cetaphil
Clearasil
Clinique 
Clairel
Coppertone
Covergirl
Dawn
Dove
Estée Lauder
Garnier
Glade
Herbal Essentials
Huggies
Hydroxatone
Johnson+Johnson-S.C.
Kaboom
Kleenex
Listerene
Lysol 
Lo'real
Maybelline
Mars Candy
Neutrogena
Olay
Oscar de larenta 
Oxiclean
P&G
Pantene
Post-it's 
Pledge
Pixi
Ralph Lauren
Revlon
Resolve
Scotch
Scott
Sephora
Sensodyne
Vaseline
Vicks
Windex
Woolite




Here's the other one: 

Yeah, I know. This is a short list. There's many more products out there. I'll be sure to add onto this one too. Okay guys, and listen, New York Color (NYC)is so confusing so I won't add it because their website never clarifies they REALLY do not test. Also several vegan websites state emails they sent inquiring about the testing were never replied.


100% pure
Acne Free
Almay
Avalon
Bare Essentials
Beauty Without Cruelty
Benifit
Bio-Oil
Blistex
Burt's Bees
Cerave
E.L.F
Eucerin
Free And Clear
GloMinerals
Gold Bond
Jergens
Nivea
Philosophy
Proactive Sol.
Revive
Sally Hansen
Sea Breeze
Simple
Bath &Body Works(Specially marked products)
Tre'semme




To see if they test of not, there is a symbol of a rabbit (the international poster child) that states cruelty free or says "not tested". Some products that do test say, FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE AND SAFETY WE TEST OUR PRODUCTS or some other thing like that. Remember, just because something says All Natural doesn't mean it helps nature or animals. Thats a common mistake when searching for only cruelty free products. I really have gotten into making others aware of testing on animals and how terrible it is even past April. It's especially horrible if you have a pet yourself and couldn't imagine anyone doing that to an animal.

My list was just of super common things that people have in their homes. (If you are unsure about New York Color you can do more research but from what I've seen it looks like the nail polish company does test.)

Edit: I can't delete the link to PETAs website and the Beauty wi/o bunnies from PETA.  I just won't paste it here. I don't choose to support PETA because they euthanize 99% of their rescued animals. Not always humanely either. Anyways, thank you for your support at Aprils Animal Cruelty Month at my blog! (:

Enjoy a cute video!

Have a nice Veterans Day! Watch a video of happy bunny Ed zipping all over the bed!

Courtesy of Alexandra

Socializing Mice With Their Owners

I have often been asked how to get a shy mouse to ‘come out of their shell’ by owners who are not even able to hold their pet, let alone play with it. There is no quick fix: the mouse has to have time to get used to you and its new surroundings.

When you first get the mouse home, allow it to settle in to its quarantine quarters without disturbing it for a day. This gives it time to make a nest and begin to feel comfortable. You can then get the mouse out and try to hold it. Remember to gently scoop the mouse up without squeezing it: a light squeeze to you could hurt such a small animal! If the mouse runs away from your hand and hides, it is most likely to be because it is scared of your hand. In the wild, a mouse’s predators will attack from above and therefore their instinct is to run away from anything that descends from above. Try approaching your pet from the side, or place your hand flat in the tank and allow the mouse to investigate and sniff around it in its own time.

One trick is to put a treat on your hand such as millet or another small seed, put your hand flat in the tank and wait for the mouse to crawl onto your hand to look. It may take a seed and then run away to eat it, but don’t worry. The seeds are so small that it will have to keep coming back and this way it will hopefully start to get used to you and your smell. Another method of picking up a scared mouse is to wait until it goes into a tube and then pick the tube up and sit with it on your lap (or a hand at each end) and wait for the mouse to come out to explore. Just remember that if you do this you must be able to handle or catch the mouse once it leaves the tube!

You may want to wait until the mouse is in or on a toy before you pick it up at first

You *can* pick a mouse up by the base of its tail if you know what you are doing, but the mouse will not be particularly fond of this! Some mice are quite accepting of this method of handling, while others will try to pull themselves up and/or get away if they are not used to it. If you do attempt this method, you must gently hold the very base (nearest the body) of the tail between your thumb and forefinger, lift the mouse gently and then put your other hand underneath the mouse to support it. Only let go of the tail if you are sure the mouse will not jump or is in a safe environment. Having said this – do not keep hold of the tail to restrain the mouse if it is in obvious distress.

A trick used with baby mice and nursing mothers that may also work for young mice that need to be socialised is to rub your hands in the bedding before attempting to pick up the mouse. This makes you smell more ‘mousy’ and therefore safer and more familiar. This trick is used so that mothers will recognize and not reject their pups after handling, but I see no reason not to try it with an older mouse that has only just left its mother. After all, it won’t hurt your attempts to tame the mouse or set you back at all. Just remember that the mouse is likely to be scared of you because you are big and new, so give it time. Try your method daily, several times a day if you can, for at least a week before you think about giving up. There is not an instant fix and you must be patient, but since mice are sociable creatures I would not anticipate that even a shy mouse would remain so for too long!

Amazing House Rabbit Pen Setups

I love seeing other house bunny owners ideas for rabbit cage setups. If you want to get good ideas to create a better living environment for your rabbit, you can look at these photos I collected. Then you can hop on over to some website info I collected.

What to Consider for an Indoor Rabbit Pen

When considering getting an indoor rabbit pen, there are many arrangements that are possible. It is important that the style of indoor housing pen for your house rabbit is an appropriate option, both for you and your pet.

Contrary to many a belief, rabbits don't need to be kept in a cage. What you may want to have is a pen area in which your rabbit has freedom, yet is kept safe. It's important that your rabbit get daily indoor or outdoor exercise, and is supervised by you.

Rabbits make such delightful pets - I've owned and fostered rabbits - and it's only natural that we want to include them in our home. Let's take a look at the options for keeping your pet rabbit(s) happy and safe in your home.

Inside The Pen

Essential to any rabbit pen are basic rabbit supplies, such as food bowls (one for veggies/fruit, one for pellets), a water bowl (more natural for rabbit than a bottle), and a litter box with litter.

Also, to keep your rabbit healthy and happy, you need to provide it with rabbit toys in its pen. Provide your rabbit with safe toys for mental stimulation and physical activity. Things to climb in, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, toss around, and chew on are some options.

Ideas for what to put in a rabbit pen include:

-Cardboard box, for crawling inside, jumping on, and chewing
-Cardboard rolls, such as from paper towel and toilet paper
-Tunnels and tubes
-Untreated wicker baskets or boxes
-Magazines or newspaper
-Cat toys, such as Batta balls
-Parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from the cage
-Dried pine cones
-Hand towel, for bunching and scooting
-Untreated and aged wood, twigs, logs
-Untreated sea grass or maize mats

Recommended indoor rabbit cages with front door access, so your rabbit can jump in and out on its own accord. Also including indoor rabbit pens.
Super Pet My First Home for Rabbits  $36.99 - $160.99	Marshall Chalet Small-Animal House  $110.00	MARCHIORO CAGE TOMMY 102 BEIGE  $89.99
GoGo Pet Products High Epoxy Exercise Pen w...  $79.92
24H" x 24" 8 Panel GoGo Black Epoxy Exercis...	Marshall Pet Products Pet Deluxe Play Pen, ...  $66.58	Ware Manufacturing Canvas 8-Panel Clean Liv...  $31.99
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This is amazing. The wood pieces add an amazing touch and this looks great! I can't tell if he's a free range rabbit or not, but you can always close off a thing like this with puppy pens.

These three lucky buns have loads of room and plenty of cool wood things. I advise you go to the website here posted in the picture. There's lots of bun fun, and great info. I cannot really tell how they did this whole setup, but you can certainly pull off something similar with a different pen.

This however, is not good. I thought this was a pen in the image but it is really a small wire cage. This could be an alternative for super small dwarf bunnies, but the rabbit should have plenty of exercise. 

This is also very small for the rabbit in the photo, but it may suit a dwarf breed.

Apologies for the faulty images my house bun friends. The cat looks into these pens, watching his bunn-emies. See what I did there? These supposedly double pens are spacious and equally good-looking. Love these.

I now cringe at the terrible quality that my computer cannot fix. This is a cube cage. Learn more about these things at www.rabbitapproved.com. There should be a sidelink about rabbit pens.

This pen is also a good size. It's nice for single buns but multiple bunnies should have a much larger one!

Sugar Glider Nutrition

Sugar gliders are naturally omnivorous, meaning they eat both animal and plant products. In the wild, they feast mostly on sap and gums (from trees), nectar, pollens, honeydews and a huge variety of insects and arachnids.

In captivity, the most critical part of keeping healthy sugar gliders is to provide a balanced, varied, fresh diet. This means ensuring the correct ratio of carbohydrates to proteins and supplying adequate vitamins and minerals. 
 
Your sugar glider’s daily basic diet should include:

• A nectar mix such as Leadbeater’s mixture
  
• Vegetables
  
• Fruits
  
• Insects
  
• Commercial pelleted food for gliders, or an insectavore/carnivore pelleted food

Note: Sugar gliders can have lean unseasoned meats as a treat.

All foods should be fresh or frozen. Fresh vegetables and fruits should be washed thoroughly to remove pesticides, and frozen foods should be thoroughly thawed. Insects can be live or canned. Pelleted food should be fresh — do not feed food that has been stored for more than two months. Nectar mixes should be refrigerated and thrown out after three weeks.

If you are giving your sugar glider enough food at night, you should find a little left over in the morning. All uneaten foods should be removed to prevent spoilage, and all dishes should be washed with biodegradable soap and hot water. 
 
Treats can be used to help tame and bond with your sugar glider, but should not make up more than 5 percent of your sugar glider's total daily intake of food. Healthy treats include very small pieces of cooked (not fried) lean unseasoned poultry or beef. Some sugar gliders also like tofu.
 
Make a Leadbeater’s mixture for your sugar glider by following this recipe:
 
Modified Leadbeater's Mix Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water
  
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons raw honey
  
• 1 shelled hard-boiled egg
  
• 1 teaspoon vitamin/mineral supplement (designed for sugar gliders, reptiles or small pets)
  
• 1/2 cup high-protein baby cereal

Directions:
Mix the first four ingredients in a blender, and then gradually add the baby cereal, blending until smooth. Refrigerate or freeze unused portions. Discard any unused refrigerated portion after three days.

Note: This recipe appears in the book, "Sugar Gliders - A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Caroline MacPherson.

Commercial sugar glider food should be prepared and stored as directed on the manufacturer’s packaging.

Freshly prepared Leadbeater's mix can be refrigerated in plastic or glass airtight containers for up to three days. The mixture can also be frozen in airtight packaging for up to six months.

Your sugar glider cage should contain several food dishes and at least two water bottles. Food and water containers should be placed high up in the cage because this is where sugar gliders naturally feed.

Daily fresh water is critical for sugar gliders because they can become dangerously dehydrated without it for even a day. Small mammal water bottles can be used to provide water to sugar gliders as they are less likely than a dish to be contaminated with urine, feces or food. The bottles should be routinely inspected for leakage and should be cleaned with biodegradable soap and hot water at least once a week.

At least two water bottles should be provided in the cage.

Water bowls are less prone to leaking and are more natural and more easily accepted. They allow water to get soiled easily, however, and require frequent cleaning.

Give your glider the following portions of food each day:
 
Food Portion 1: One tablespoon of fresh fruit, such as apple, kiwi, pear, banana, honeydew, papaya, grape, cantaloupe, watermelon, mango or blueberry. Wash fruit thoroughly to remove dirt and pesticides before offering them to sugar gliders.

Food Portion 2: One tablespoon of fresh or frozen vegetables, such as tomatoes, sweet potatoes, green beans, shredded carrot, squash, or pumpkin, mixed sprouts, lettuce (not iceberg), broccoli or parsley. Wash vegetables thoroughly to remove dirt and pesticides before offering them to sugar gliders.
 
Food Portion 3: One tablespoon of nectar mix (i.e. Leadbeater's mix or other commercially prepared nectar mix for sugar gliders)

Food Portion 4: An unlimited amount of commercial pelleted sugar glider diet or insectavore/carnivore diet, available at all times. 

Food Portion 5:  Insects such as mealworms or other feeder worms, like earthworms or Phoenix worms, available at pet stores. Feed 10 to 12 small, 7 to 10 medium, or 3 to 5 large worms, 3 to 5 gut-loaded crickets per sugar glider per night. Sugar gliders also enjoy other insects such as beetles and grasshoppers. (Only gather insects from outdoors if you are completely certain no insecticides have been used in the area.) Uneaten insects that are still alive in the morning should be returned to their containers.

Feeding a good quality, commercially prepared balanced diet made specifically for sugar gliders is the best way to ensure your small pet is getting the correct ratio of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. You should also add insects, fresh fruits and vegetables daily. To be safe, add a vitamin and mineral supplement to your sugar glider’s diet.

If you prefer to give your sugar glider a homemade diet, a vitamin and mineral supplement is a must. Use vitamin and mineral supplements made specifically for sugar gliders, or you can offer a cat, dog or reptile multi-vitamin with minerals, including calcium but no phosphorus.