Enjoy a cute video!

Have a nice Veterans Day! Watch a video of happy bunny Ed zipping all over the bed!

Courtesy of Alexandra

Socializing Mice With Their Owners

I have often been asked how to get a shy mouse to ‘come out of their shell’ by owners who are not even able to hold their pet, let alone play with it. There is no quick fix: the mouse has to have time to get used to you and its new surroundings.

When you first get the mouse home, allow it to settle in to its quarantine quarters without disturbing it for a day. This gives it time to make a nest and begin to feel comfortable. You can then get the mouse out and try to hold it. Remember to gently scoop the mouse up without squeezing it: a light squeeze to you could hurt such a small animal! If the mouse runs away from your hand and hides, it is most likely to be because it is scared of your hand. In the wild, a mouse’s predators will attack from above and therefore their instinct is to run away from anything that descends from above. Try approaching your pet from the side, or place your hand flat in the tank and allow the mouse to investigate and sniff around it in its own time.

One trick is to put a treat on your hand such as millet or another small seed, put your hand flat in the tank and wait for the mouse to crawl onto your hand to look. It may take a seed and then run away to eat it, but don’t worry. The seeds are so small that it will have to keep coming back and this way it will hopefully start to get used to you and your smell. Another method of picking up a scared mouse is to wait until it goes into a tube and then pick the tube up and sit with it on your lap (or a hand at each end) and wait for the mouse to come out to explore. Just remember that if you do this you must be able to handle or catch the mouse once it leaves the tube!

You may want to wait until the mouse is in or on a toy before you pick it up at first

You *can* pick a mouse up by the base of its tail if you know what you are doing, but the mouse will not be particularly fond of this! Some mice are quite accepting of this method of handling, while others will try to pull themselves up and/or get away if they are not used to it. If you do attempt this method, you must gently hold the very base (nearest the body) of the tail between your thumb and forefinger, lift the mouse gently and then put your other hand underneath the mouse to support it. Only let go of the tail if you are sure the mouse will not jump or is in a safe environment. Having said this – do not keep hold of the tail to restrain the mouse if it is in obvious distress.

A trick used with baby mice and nursing mothers that may also work for young mice that need to be socialised is to rub your hands in the bedding before attempting to pick up the mouse. This makes you smell more ‘mousy’ and therefore safer and more familiar. This trick is used so that mothers will recognize and not reject their pups after handling, but I see no reason not to try it with an older mouse that has only just left its mother. After all, it won’t hurt your attempts to tame the mouse or set you back at all. Just remember that the mouse is likely to be scared of you because you are big and new, so give it time. Try your method daily, several times a day if you can, for at least a week before you think about giving up. There is not an instant fix and you must be patient, but since mice are sociable creatures I would not anticipate that even a shy mouse would remain so for too long!

Amazing House Rabbit Pen Setups

I love seeing other house bunny owners ideas for rabbit cage setups. If you want to get good ideas to create a better living environment for your rabbit, you can look at these photos I collected. Then you can hop on over to some website info I collected.

What to Consider for an Indoor Rabbit Pen

When considering getting an indoor rabbit pen, there are many arrangements that are possible. It is important that the style of indoor housing pen for your house rabbit is an appropriate option, both for you and your pet.

Contrary to many a belief, rabbits don't need to be kept in a cage. What you may want to have is a pen area in which your rabbit has freedom, yet is kept safe. It's important that your rabbit get daily indoor or outdoor exercise, and is supervised by you.

Rabbits make such delightful pets - I've owned and fostered rabbits - and it's only natural that we want to include them in our home. Let's take a look at the options for keeping your pet rabbit(s) happy and safe in your home.

Inside The Pen

Essential to any rabbit pen are basic rabbit supplies, such as food bowls (one for veggies/fruit, one for pellets), a water bowl (more natural for rabbit than a bottle), and a litter box with litter.

Also, to keep your rabbit healthy and happy, you need to provide it with rabbit toys in its pen. Provide your rabbit with safe toys for mental stimulation and physical activity. Things to climb in, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, toss around, and chew on are some options.

Ideas for what to put in a rabbit pen include:

-Cardboard box, for crawling inside, jumping on, and chewing
-Cardboard rolls, such as from paper towel and toilet paper
-Tunnels and tubes
-Untreated wicker baskets or boxes
-Magazines or newspaper
-Cat toys, such as Batta balls
-Parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from the cage
-Dried pine cones
-Hand towel, for bunching and scooting
-Untreated and aged wood, twigs, logs
-Untreated sea grass or maize mats

Recommended indoor rabbit cages with front door access, so your rabbit can jump in and out on its own accord. Also including indoor rabbit pens.
Super Pet My First Home for Rabbits  $36.99 - $160.99	Marshall Chalet Small-Animal House  $110.00	MARCHIORO CAGE TOMMY 102 BEIGE  $89.99
GoGo Pet Products High Epoxy Exercise Pen w...  $79.92
24H" x 24" 8 Panel GoGo Black Epoxy Exercis...	Marshall Pet Products Pet Deluxe Play Pen, ...  $66.58	Ware Manufacturing Canvas 8-Panel Clean Liv...  $31.99
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This is amazing. The wood pieces add an amazing touch and this looks great! I can't tell if he's a free range rabbit or not, but you can always close off a thing like this with puppy pens.

These three lucky buns have loads of room and plenty of cool wood things. I advise you go to the website here posted in the picture. There's lots of bun fun, and great info. I cannot really tell how they did this whole setup, but you can certainly pull off something similar with a different pen.

This however, is not good. I thought this was a pen in the image but it is really a small wire cage. This could be an alternative for super small dwarf bunnies, but the rabbit should have plenty of exercise. 

This is also very small for the rabbit in the photo, but it may suit a dwarf breed.

Apologies for the faulty images my house bun friends. The cat looks into these pens, watching his bunn-emies. See what I did there? These supposedly double pens are spacious and equally good-looking. Love these.

I now cringe at the terrible quality that my computer cannot fix. This is a cube cage. Learn more about these things at www.rabbitapproved.com. There should be a sidelink about rabbit pens.

This pen is also a good size. It's nice for single buns but multiple bunnies should have a much larger one!

Sugar Glider Nutrition

Sugar gliders are naturally omnivorous, meaning they eat both animal and plant products. In the wild, they feast mostly on sap and gums (from trees), nectar, pollens, honeydews and a huge variety of insects and arachnids.

In captivity, the most critical part of keeping healthy sugar gliders is to provide a balanced, varied, fresh diet. This means ensuring the correct ratio of carbohydrates to proteins and supplying adequate vitamins and minerals. 
 
Your sugar glider’s daily basic diet should include:

• A nectar mix such as Leadbeater’s mixture
  
• Vegetables
  
• Fruits
  
• Insects
  
• Commercial pelleted food for gliders, or an insectavore/carnivore pelleted food

Note: Sugar gliders can have lean unseasoned meats as a treat.

All foods should be fresh or frozen. Fresh vegetables and fruits should be washed thoroughly to remove pesticides, and frozen foods should be thoroughly thawed. Insects can be live or canned. Pelleted food should be fresh — do not feed food that has been stored for more than two months. Nectar mixes should be refrigerated and thrown out after three weeks.

If you are giving your sugar glider enough food at night, you should find a little left over in the morning. All uneaten foods should be removed to prevent spoilage, and all dishes should be washed with biodegradable soap and hot water. 
 
Treats can be used to help tame and bond with your sugar glider, but should not make up more than 5 percent of your sugar glider's total daily intake of food. Healthy treats include very small pieces of cooked (not fried) lean unseasoned poultry or beef. Some sugar gliders also like tofu.
 
Make a Leadbeater’s mixture for your sugar glider by following this recipe:
 
Modified Leadbeater's Mix Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm water
  
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons raw honey
  
• 1 shelled hard-boiled egg
  
• 1 teaspoon vitamin/mineral supplement (designed for sugar gliders, reptiles or small pets)
  
• 1/2 cup high-protein baby cereal

Directions:
Mix the first four ingredients in a blender, and then gradually add the baby cereal, blending until smooth. Refrigerate or freeze unused portions. Discard any unused refrigerated portion after three days.

Note: This recipe appears in the book, "Sugar Gliders - A Complete Pet Owner's Manual" by Caroline MacPherson.

Commercial sugar glider food should be prepared and stored as directed on the manufacturer’s packaging.

Freshly prepared Leadbeater's mix can be refrigerated in plastic or glass airtight containers for up to three days. The mixture can also be frozen in airtight packaging for up to six months.

Your sugar glider cage should contain several food dishes and at least two water bottles. Food and water containers should be placed high up in the cage because this is where sugar gliders naturally feed.

Daily fresh water is critical for sugar gliders because they can become dangerously dehydrated without it for even a day. Small mammal water bottles can be used to provide water to sugar gliders as they are less likely than a dish to be contaminated with urine, feces or food. The bottles should be routinely inspected for leakage and should be cleaned with biodegradable soap and hot water at least once a week.

At least two water bottles should be provided in the cage.

Water bowls are less prone to leaking and are more natural and more easily accepted. They allow water to get soiled easily, however, and require frequent cleaning.

Give your glider the following portions of food each day:
 
Food Portion 1: One tablespoon of fresh fruit, such as apple, kiwi, pear, banana, honeydew, papaya, grape, cantaloupe, watermelon, mango or blueberry. Wash fruit thoroughly to remove dirt and pesticides before offering them to sugar gliders.

Food Portion 2: One tablespoon of fresh or frozen vegetables, such as tomatoes, sweet potatoes, green beans, shredded carrot, squash, or pumpkin, mixed sprouts, lettuce (not iceberg), broccoli or parsley. Wash vegetables thoroughly to remove dirt and pesticides before offering them to sugar gliders.
 
Food Portion 3: One tablespoon of nectar mix (i.e. Leadbeater's mix or other commercially prepared nectar mix for sugar gliders)

Food Portion 4: An unlimited amount of commercial pelleted sugar glider diet or insectavore/carnivore diet, available at all times. 

Food Portion 5:  Insects such as mealworms or other feeder worms, like earthworms or Phoenix worms, available at pet stores. Feed 10 to 12 small, 7 to 10 medium, or 3 to 5 large worms, 3 to 5 gut-loaded crickets per sugar glider per night. Sugar gliders also enjoy other insects such as beetles and grasshoppers. (Only gather insects from outdoors if you are completely certain no insecticides have been used in the area.) Uneaten insects that are still alive in the morning should be returned to their containers.

Feeding a good quality, commercially prepared balanced diet made specifically for sugar gliders is the best way to ensure your small pet is getting the correct ratio of protein, carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals. You should also add insects, fresh fruits and vegetables daily. To be safe, add a vitamin and mineral supplement to your sugar glider’s diet.

If you prefer to give your sugar glider a homemade diet, a vitamin and mineral supplement is a must. Use vitamin and mineral supplements made specifically for sugar gliders, or you can offer a cat, dog or reptile multi-vitamin with minerals, including calcium but no phosphorus.

Halloween Critters

Hello everyone. If you are planning on dressing your pet up next year here are some tips. Critters do look adorable in their costumes! Remember though, safety comes first. Here are a few safety tips for costume wearing critters.🐹.                        


When putting on your pets costume, examine it. Most costumes have parts your pet could swallow or chew on, and therefore should be avoided. Make sure your pet can walk around in his costume, and never ever force him into a costume you want him to wear. To a dog or cat, his fur is his clothing, so that'd be like a person wearing clothes over clothes. If he struggles you should not put a costume on him. Make sure you have the right size for your pet so he won't have a tight costume.

Fall fun

Pumpkin carving and gutting today. I made a cute carving with Daisy and Mickey on it.

Favorite artwork

Just all my favorite artwork I did so far.(no for sale....yet!)

Dog(bad lighting...sorry)

Goat

Polar bear

Seahorse

Brown bear

Horse rough sketch

Comic art

Dolphins

Rat

Daisy foam art(ancient)

 

Daisy charcoal + mixed art tools drawing

Eagle framed art

Daisy mixed media art

Here are more stuff in a separate portfolio .

Comic cover

Paint practicing.....I didn't think I kept this. /:

One of many comics

First Daisy (from the comic )drawing ever....... Wow

Speaking of comics.... Here is the daily Pawprints comic: 

Thanks for reading!