Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Rat Teeth

Pet rat teeth can be downright problematic. Not all exotic pets have problems with their teeth but pet rats can. Rats have some teeth that grow continuously throughout their lives and these teeth may periodically require tooth trims if they are not naturally worn down, are damaged, or if your rat has a tooth alignment issue.



Dogs and cats are born with no teeth, develop deciduous teeth, and then lose those baby teeth so that their adult teeth can take their place. Rats, on the other hand, only have one set of teeth their entire lives. Their monophyodontal mouths start showing teeth at as young as eight days of age. These teeth, twelve molars and four incisors, remain in your pet rat's mouth for the rest of it's life. The molars never grow but the incisors continuously grow, sometimes causing problems for your rat.The incisors of a rat are naturally colored yellow and are harder than a human's teeth. Their upper incisors should be about four mm long and their bottom incisors almost twice that length at seven mm long. Much of the incisors are hidden underneath your rat's lips therefore in order to get a good look at their teeth you'll need to gently pull back their cheeks and lips to make sure the teeth aren't curling up and back into your rat's mouth or into the side of their cheek.

The incisors, or front teeth, are easy to identify when they become overgrown. They will usually grow so long that they begin to curve and stick out between the lips where they can become stuck on things, or worse yet, grow into the gums or roof of your rat's mouth. The molars, or teeth in the back of the mouth, do not grow so therefore they are not a problem like they can be in cavies and rabbits.

Most rats will wear their incisors down appropriately when they gnaw on their food but some rats are born with misaligned teeth, jaws, or suffer trauma at some point in their lives which inhibits normal gnawing action.

Incisor Tooth Trims

If done correctly, tooth trims are not painful. There are two common methods used to trim incisors. The first is by using regular dog nail clippers to cut the tooth like you would a toenail. This method is not the preferred way to trim teeth. There is a high risk of cracking or splitting the tooth because of the force needed to use the clippers. This method can cause pain if the tooth is split up to the nerve or is trimmed too short. The second method is by using a handheld rotary tool, like the Dremel, with a cut-off wheel to slice the excess tooth off. This method does require a bit more skill and anesthesia or sedation for rats since their mouths are so small but can be easily performed by a trained exotics veterinarian or veterinary technician. By using a rotary tool no trauma will occur to the tooth or nerve when cut. The only concerns are for trauma to the gums or lips if the wheel accidentally grazes them, or if the tooth is trimmed too short. This is why it is necessary to anesthetize rats to properly, and safely, trim their teeth.

Owners of rats and other exotic pets with teeth that continuously grow must be aware of the possible complications regarding their pet's teeth. Without the proper attention, overgrown teeth can cause serious trauma, anorexia, infections, pain, and even death from the inability to chew and swallow. Thankfully the problem of overgrown teeth is easily controlled with regular tooth trims and monitoring of tooth length.

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Bad and Good Beddings for Guinea Pigs

Here is a list of the different bedding that should be used in cages. You can also do a combination of some to save on money.
Fleece: Fleece is a great alternative bedding that is soft and wonderful for your guinea pig. But as like the hay is should not be used alone as fleece wicks away your guinea pig's pee. If there is nothing under it the pee has no where to go. Some people use uhaul pads, towels and puppy pads.
Carefresh: is a popular bedding material, although some people are not fond of it. Reportedly soft and absorbent, the primary drawbacks are price and some dust. Carefresh Ultra reportedly is not dusty but is more expensive. Critter Care and other generic Care FRESH type beddings are less costly but more dusty. A few people will put this on top of wood stove pellets or yesterdays news to add a soft top to a harder bedding.

Hay: While hay is not a good bedding material when used alone, it works well when combined with other absorbent bedding material like Carefresh. The hay itself is not absorbent and should be removed and replaced daily.

"kiln-dried" pine: There are two types of pine, "kiln-dried" and normal. If you're using normal pine, be sure to air the shavings thoroughly and use in a well ventilated cage. Airing the shavings will allow the volatile oils to dissipate. It has been found that these oils can cause medical problems in small animals, while its not as bad as cedar, airing it out will cut this problem. The other problem we have heard over and over is the mess. Guinea pigs LOVE to run around. In doing so they can kick up a lot of pine shavings leaving, owners frustrated with the clean up.











While there are only a few "bad" beddings, we aren't saying you're a bad guinea pig owner. We are here to help you so here are the reasons why these bedding materials should not be used.

Cedar ShavingsIt is widely believed that cedar shavings negatively affect the health of animals. Reportedly, the phenols (aromatic oils) which so effectively kill insects, harm the respiratory tracts of our pets and may cause liver damage.

Given the availability of better bedding materials, never use cedar. Choose a safer bedding for your pet instead.

Saw Dust: saw dust is just that, dust. It can cause horrible breathing problems.
Newspaper: While some people find it useful to line the bottom of the cage with newspaper and place another bedding on top, newspaper alone is a poor bedding material. It does not absorb liquids well, does not control odors, and must be frequently changed.
Corn Cob Bedding: Corn cob bedding has a tendency to mold, does not control odors, and is reportedly hard on a Guinea Pig's feet, making it a poor bedding. Guinea Pigs will sometimes eat this bedding, which reportedly swells when wet. 
Straw: Straw is non absorbent, can mold, and the stiff stalks may cause injuries (especially eye injuries) to your pet.








Life With A Raggle(beagle/rat terrier mix)

Life with a Raggle is interesting. Very interesting.
A rat terrier is a breed of dog that hunts, and kills vermin.
So much for the idea of having a pet rat.
A beagle is a stubborn, food-obsessed dog that we had experience with before.(not good experience...)

So..what do you get when you cross the two?
A Raggle. 
This is Minnie. Our sweet little girl. Honestly, she's the best dog ever. Love her to pieces.
Mostly.
We really had no intentions of getting the breed, but then again, that's the beauty of adopting pets. They always turn out to be the best, whatever the breed.
She loves to play with toys. There's this obnoxious red squeaky toy that she LOVES. Pretty much expect this breed to be hyper, and obsessed with toys, even past puppyhood.
She loves people. And kids. This is just her, mainly because she lives with kids, so all raggles differ. But most rat terriers are known for being kid-friendly.

Then, there's food. This is where her beagle side shines through.
She looovees compost. It's one of the drawbacks of living with a Raggle. They don't just run outside to play with everyone like a Lab will, off-leash and having no intentions of running off into the garden where the compost is. Noooo. They have to learn their lesson by having tummy troubles. Which involves the humans cleaning up throwup of dog. Nice.

Raggles do have this irresistible-ness. They make these sad faces. "Woe is me!"They seem to cry. Reminding you of those animal cruelty commercials. "Nobody loves me.....nobody cares for me. Will you care for me?"

Training is hard without a constant supply of food. 
They do well when treats are fed after EVERY good thing they do when they listen and obey and respect their master...
This is how it seems:

Then you say:
But if you don't have food, your dog gives you a look like:


Overall, I mean...she's not too bad. She's really a sweetheart, and loves her family. 
(And she's definetely not solely rat terrier! This is what a rat terrier is:

My reaction:
Well, that's all for now.... Bye! Guinea pig calling, gotta go!









Wednesday, January 15, 2014

More Minnie Pictures

Here are some more pictures of Minnie, in case you wanted to see some.






Unsafe Vegetables, Fruits, and Plants for Guinea Pigs

FOOD / PLANT / FLOWER
 
Notes
Aconite
  
Anemone (windflower, tumbleweed)
  
Autumn crocus
  
Avodaco
 
Any kind – Too high in fat.
Baked goods (cakes, cookies)
  
Beans
 
Any kind – causes gas/bloating.
Bishop’s Weed (Ammi majus)
 
May contain toxic levels of nitrates.
Black locust
  
Buttercup
  
Caladium
  
Caster oil plants (castor bean, palma)
  
Cherry trees (wild and cultivated)
  
Chiles
  
Christmas pepper
  
Clematis (virgin’s bower)
  
Coconut
 
Any kind – Too high in fat.
Coffee, soda
 
High in sugar, caffeine.
Cycads
  
Daffodil (narcissus, jonquil)
  
Dairy products
  
Daphne
  
Delphinum (larkspur, staggerweed)
  
Dicerna (bleeding heart, dutchman’s breeches, squirrel corn, turkey corn)
  
Diffenbachia (dumb cane)
  
Elderberry
  
Elephant ear
  
English ivy
  
Euphorbia (annual poinsettia, mexican fire plant, fire-on-the-mountain, snow-on-the-mountain)
  
Four-o’clock
  
Foxglove
  
Garland flower
  
Garlic
 
Poinsonous.
Glory lily (climbing lily, gloriosa)
  
Golden chain
  
Goutweed (Aegopodium podagraria)
 See Bishop’s Weed
Ground Elder (Aegopodium podagraria)
 See Bishop’s Weed
Gyacinth
  
Hydrangea
  
Holly
  
Horseradish
 
Too pungent.
Hot herbs and spices
  
Lettuce – Iceberg
 
Low nutrition, high water content.
Iris
  
Indian spurge tree (pencil tree, malabartree, pencil cactus, monkey fiddle)
  
Jack-in-the-pulpit
  
Jerusalem cherry
  
Jams, jellies, fruit preservatives
 
High sugar content.
Jasmine
  
Juice
 
High sugar content.
Lantana camera (red sage)
  
Laurels
  
Lilac
  
Lily-of-the-valley
  
Marsh marigold (cowslip)
  
Matrimony vine
  
Mayapple
  
Meadow saffron
  
Meat
  
Mistletoe
  
Monkshood
  
Mountain laurel
  
Mushrooms (amanita muscaria&amanita phalloides)
 
Poinsonous.
Nightshade
  
Nuts
 
Any kind – too high in fat.
Oaks
  
Oleander
  
Olives (canned)
 
Pickled or brined vegetables are
NOT safe for guinea pigs
Paprikas
  
Peppers – hot and chiles
  
Philodendron
  
Phytolacca (poke weed, poke berry, ink berry)
  
Pickled vegetables (dill, pickles, capers, sauer kraut)
  
Pine needles
  
Poinciana (bird-of-paradise)
  
Poison hemlock
  
Potato and potato tops (leaves)
  
Pothos
  
Potatoes
 
Poisonous if green or sprouted. Yams and sweet potatoes are OK in moderation.
Privet
  
Pyracantha (firethorn)
  
Raw beans
  
Rhododendron (laurels, rose bay, azalea)
  
Rhubarb
 
Poinsonous.
Rosary pea
  
Seeds
 
Choking hazard.
Snowdrop
  
Snow-in-the-mountain (Aegopodium podagraria)
 See Bishop’s Weed
Soda, soda pop
 
High in sugar, caffeine.
Spring adonis (pheasant’s eye)
  
Star-of-bethlehem
  
Strelitzia (bird-of-paradise)
  
Sweet pea
  
Taro
 
Dangerous of eaten unprepared or raw.
Tea
  
Tomatillo – leaves and stalk
 
Poisonous.
Tomato – leaves and stalk
 
Poinsonous.
Trumpet flower (chalice vine)
  
Water hemlock
  
Wisteria
  
Yellow oleander (lucky nut, tiger apple, be-still-tree)
  
Yew
  
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