Rabbit Care Items I Could Not Live Without

It's Sunday! This generally means longer posts since it's the weekend and I have more time....but I like to save all the fun stuff for when people have time to read it. Like now!

Here are the tools of the trade, the things you need, the secrets of my rabbit's care....and all that. 

Prepare yourselves.

These are not the run of the mill items, like food, water, and a nice cozy cage.

These are rather strange objects, things you will find weird yet helpful in your bunny's life. So yeah.

Onward.

1: Newspaper

After reading my post on rabbits and newspaper, (which can be found here: http://naturegirlscrittercorner.blogspot.com/2013/11/pet-rabbits-and-many-uses-for-newspaper.html) you probably already know I use newspaper a lot in my rabbit's pen - for freshening up the pen and for the rabbit to tear it up for fun.

It's really good to have this on hand, and I strongly advise you keep this where you store your pet's items so you'll have it handy. It's an easy fix for bunny boredom and can be put down where your rabbit rests or around his litter box. A thick lining of newspaper provides a foot guard if your rabbit has a cage with wire bottoms, along with a piece of cardboard for extra protection.

2: Petroleum Jelly

Rabbits have very sensitive feet like how I discussed above. Our one rabbit gets sore hocks more often because she has a cage with a hard bottom. We apply petroleum jelly to the feet when the sore hocks shows up on the feet to cover it up and avoid infection or more pain. We cannot use bandages on bunny feet, of course, so petroleum jelly works to keep sore hocks at bay. I recommend putting together a rabbit first aid kit because these guys can get small injuries from time to time and you will be prepared.

3: Boxes

These we save and reuse after the rabbits play with them, create castles for more exciting rabbit playtime, and leave them in the bunny pen frequently for more playtime. If you want to create a bunny castle, you'll need several boxes to work with.

 The ideal box is large enough for your rabbit to move around in, but short enough that he/she can jump onto the top to play as well. Remove any excess tape from the box as it can get caught in your rabbit's fur. To create the most simple castle use your scissors or utility knife to cut two or more openings in the box. The openings should be appropriately sized for your rabbit.

4: Nail Clippers

Rabbits who live in the wild don't need pedicures because their nails are kept short by normal means. However, because she lives indoors, your rabbit's toenails can grow very long and sharp. If they are not trimmed regularly, they can become uncomfortable for both you and your pet. If left untrimmed, her nails can curve too far inward, which can cause them to break, a painful experience for your pet. Trimming her nails may not be one of the more exciting grooming tasks for either you or your rabbit. I can certainly agree, due to my bunny's persistence and stubborn attitude. 

But, with some patience and care, you can do it. You may want to have your vet or an experienced groomer show you the technique the first time. 

Trimming your rabbit's nails can present a bit of a challenge for another reason - your rabbit won't like being restrained, which is part of the process. Enlist a helper if you can. You can wrap your rabbit in a towel with her feet sticking out and trim the nails while your helper holds her. The main thing you want to be cautious about is cutting into the quick of the nail. If your rabbit has light colored nails, the quick (the portion of the nail containing the blood) will be highly visible, making them very easy to trim. All you have to do is clip the nail below the quick. If your rabbit has dark colored nails, it will be more difficult to see the quick, so you should cut the nails a little at a time. Remember your objective is to trim the sharp points. It's not necessary to cut off a large part of the nail, particularly if you trim them on a regular basis. Scissors or a guillotine type nail clipper for pets is the best tool to use. 

If you should cut into the quick by mistake and bleeding occurs, you can stop it by using one of the following methods:

• Apply pressure to the nail with a cotton ball
• Use a coagulating agent such as "Quick Stop"

One way to cut down on the frequency of nail trimming is to place some rough stones or bricks in her cage. This will provide an abrasive surface that will help keep her nails worn down naturally. 

If you don't want to attempt clipping your rabbit's nails yourself, your veterinarian can do the job. Nails should be checked every four to six weeks. Never declaw a rabbit! It is unsafe, inhumane and is not recommended.

My bunny's nail clippers are specifically for rabbits, and yours should be as well. Dog nail clippers are thick and can bend the rabbits nail.

Requests N' Stuff - Important Rabbit Question and hammie ball review ! ...Well, don't just sit there....read it!

Yay, I loveeee Saturdays. Usually here on Critter Corner that means...Requests! First things first. I got a question sent to me and the answer is way too detailed to reply in a comment. Here goes!

Q: This Easter, we are planning on getting our six year old daughter a bunny. My bunny owner friend disapproves of this and said that it's not a good idea. Could you tell me if this is true or not and if so, why?

A: Rabbits are commonly thought of as wonderful pets for children. After all, who can look at a cute, fluffy bunny and not feel a child-like sense of love for it? Unfortunately, though, rabbits are actually very poorly suited to being pets just for children. Of course, there are exceptions if the adult is the primary caretaker and supervises bunny and child interaction at all times.

 Many people are surprised and disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the cute-n-cuddly stereotype in children’s stories. Baby bunnies (and many young adult rabbits) are too busy dashing madly about, squeezing behind furniture, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held. Also, rabbits are physically delicate animals which means they can be hurt by children picking them up. Because rabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle which means children can also get hurt. Rabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are common. For these reasons, many children, especially young children, will find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest.

So why do they make good house pets? Rabbits...

• are quiet can learn near-perfect litterbox habits
• are fun to watch
• have different personalities just as individual dogs and cats do
• are affectionate, loving if given plenty of indoor, open exercise space and proper love and care.

In addition, rabbits are social animals, meaning they need the companionship of humans or other rabbits, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people, but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust.

In order for a family and a rabbit to get to know each other (and for the rabbit’s best health), the rabbit needs to be an indoor pet with as much out-of-cage time with the family as possible. If you relegate your rabbit to an outdoor hutch (or even to an indoor cage for most of the day), your family will miss getting to know the special personality of the rabbit.

As the adult, you need to get used to this idea:

The rabbit will be your pet.

If your family already has a rabbit whom “my child was supposed to care for” and there are problems with this, then try to reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is an adult’s responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness. Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in appetite, behavior, and/or droppings that even mature children will miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child of any age to take responsibility for care of a rabbit (or any pet). The rabbit and your children, as well as the family peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this notion.

If your family is considering adopting a rabbit, decide how you and the other adults in the household feel about taking on the responsibility of a rabbit. Do the adults want a rabbit as a member of the family? If the rabbit is an all-around family member (lives indoors, gets regular out-of-cage time) and play with the rabbit is supervised, then a child and rabbit can get to know each other and live together happily. Do the adults have an understanding of the basic nature of rabbits and what to expect in terms of time, training, and cost? Or, are you open to finding out? Are the adults willing to make a 5 to 10 yr. commitment?

Unless the adults of the household are enthusiastic, informed, and committed about the work involved, a stuffed animal rabbit is a better choice.

Other Factors: Amount of Time & Patience You Have to Devote

You don’t have to be “Super-Adult” to have peaceful coexistence between rabbit and children. But, do you want another “toddler”? Rabbits are a lot like 2 yr. old children - they can be a joy to live with, but:

• You will need to spend time in toilet-training i.e.: litterbox training and have tolerance for accidents. Most rabbit people take occasional scattered droppings in stride. There may be an occasional puddle, usually done to mark new territory.

• You will need to bunny-proof the parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed to run somewhat similar to toddler-proofing.

• You will need to check on your rabbit often and supervise child/rabbit interactions when the rabbit is out for exercise. Three to four hours per day of out-of-cage time is the minimum.

• Some of your things may be partially ruined. The amount of chewing and digging  that your rabbit does will depend on age, personality, whether spayed/neutered, as well as on what toys you provide him.

• Your rabbit will need toys but these can be homemade.

• Just like human toddlers, rabbits respond to routines for feeding, playing, and cleaning up. The main thing is to find a routine that is easy for you. If the routine is too difficult, you will begin to look at the rabbit as one more mess-maker. 

• You will need to recognize and learn your rabbits desires and needs and fulfill them, not decide you will when you feel like it.

• A rabbit, like a child, responds best to situations that are set up so he will do the right things and receive praise for doing right instead of punishment for doing wrong.

Other Factors: Your Child’s Personality

If your child is generally easy-going, calm, gentle, and cooperative, you may enjoy having a rabbit as a member of the family. If your child is generally on the loud side, very active, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently seems to need reminders about or challenges rules(which most young children are), s/he may find it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you may find that a rabbit is an additional stress.

Other Factors: Number of Children & Ages

Contrary to Easter-time hype, rabbits are rarely a good choice for a small child (younger than 7 yrs.). The natural exuberance, rambunctiousness, and decibel-level of the average toddler is stressful for most rabbits. Children want a companion they can hold and cuddle; Rabbits need someone who understands that they are ground-loving creatures.

The guidelines below are based on what children of varying ages are genuinely like while keeping in mind the type of household most rabbits do well in. Of course, rabbits and children do vary and there may be exceptions to these guidelines. The most important factor is most likely the adults’ attitude and knowledge level (see previous section “The Rabbit Will Be Your Pet”

 A Child Younger Than 7 Years -  Probably shouldn’t get a rabbit unless your child fits the calm” description and you are an informed adult who wants to deal with another toddler. It can be done though, if you have the time and patience.

One or More Younger than 7 Years - Probably shouldn’t get a rabbit. You are likely very busy with active children who need a lot of your attention which will probably leave you little time for managing a rabbit.

One Younger than & One Older than 7 Years - Perhaps. Your time, the children’s personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. If your younger child is “on the move and into everything, it may be difficult for you & rabbit to live happily even if the older child is of the “calm” type.

1 or More Older than 7 Years - Perhaps. Again, your time, the children’s personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. Lots of friends coming & going will probably stress out a rabbit. Your children may also be involved in quite a few activities (music lessons, sports, etc.) which may leave little time for the rabbit & family to get to know each other.

One Younger and 1 or More Older than 7 Years - Probably shouldn’t get a rabbit. Consider the information in 3. & 4. above, but your household is most likely too busy and noisy to build a friendship with a rabbit. Caring for and training a rabbit may be “just one more thing” that the adults have to do. 

Two or More Younger than & One or More Older than 7 Years -Probably shouldn’t get a rabbit. Consider the information in 2.-5. above.

• One Child 7 Years or Older - If you are enthusiastic about accepting responsibility for a rabbit and if your child is the calm type or at least generally accepting of rules for behavior, you and a rabbit would probably find it a joy to live together. If your child is of the loud/active/ challenging rules variety, a rabbit may just increase your stress level and the rabbit will suffer.

Other Factors: Money

As with any pet, rabbits require a commitment in terms of housing, feeding, and medical care for their natural lives. The biggest initial expenses will be a pen or cage ($100 and up) and a spay ($80-200) or neuter ($75-150) operation if this was not done prior to adoption or purchase. Rabbits do not need annual shots (in the USA at least) but you will usually need to make several visits to a veterinarian when she is sick. You will need to keep supplies of litter, food pellets, fresh vegetables, and hay on hand.

Other Factors: Housing 

Rabbits should be kept indoors for health, safety, and socialization. You will need space for at least a 30″ x 30″ or 24″ x 36″ cage. The cage should be away from TV’s, stereos and high noise areas, but not completely isolated from people. Consider which area is most easily bunny-proofed for your rabbit’s out-of-cage time.

Allergies

If any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits before you get a rabbit.

New Baby in the House?

If a baby is coming, or has come, to your rabbit’s house, your rabbit will probably be getting less of your attention for awhile, but neither of you needs to suffer. You may not have time for lots of petting and playing, but focus on maintaining the rabbit’s daily care routine. It can be relaxing to have some petting time with your rabbit when baby sleeps. Rabbits will adjust! Your rabbit will be infinitely happier with you than if he is given away to adjust to a new home. Shelters and rescue groups overflowing with dogs, cats, and yes, rabbits, are constant reminders of how difficult it is to find people willing to give an animal a good home for life. Many are initially enthusiastic about getting a new pet, but when the newness wears off and the reality of care sets in, many animals find themselves disposed of for the owners convenience.

Remember! - When baby gets older, rabbit will have added attention from your child (and you) which can be a good thing if you are committed to teaching your child about the rabbit.

Teaching Children to be Rabbit People

Whether you have brought a baby home to your rabbit’s house or have brought a rabbit home to your child’s house, it is well to remember to:

• Learn about rabbit behavior/language so you can point out the rabbits feelings about your child’s actions.
• Choose a time of day when your child is on “low ebb” for teaching your child about the rabbit and for play with the rabbit.
• Set your child and the rabbit up for success. Try to anticipate and prevent inappropriate interaction by often showing your child how to interact.
• Try not to get into a pattern of always saying “Don’t…” and “Stop…” to your child about the rabbit. If your child does something inappropriate, show and talk about what the child can do with the rabbit. Offer choices for behavior and ask “What could you do…?”. Otherwise, your child may see the rabbit as something he is always getting in trouble for.

• Keep the child away from the rabbit for a short time if the child refuses to stop a behavior that may hurt the rabbit.
• Set up the cage so rabbit can get away from the children-”a safe zone”. Use child gates in doorways and or turn the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
• Put the rabbit in a closed-off room when there are lots of playmates or parties. It is often better if the guests “don’t know the rabbit exists”. – Refrain from having children’s friends in to “see the new rabbit” since this can frighten them. Children have different rules, and most likely they have not been taught proper rabbit care and will just want to cuddle and hold it. Once your bunny is settled in and does not seem to be frightened around the child, then when the child's friends come again, hold the rabbit and let them gently stoke it. NEVER let the children go off to the rabbits cage unsupervised, or let him out during the children's playtime.
• Show children’s friends where rabbit lives and how to pet at times when only 1 or 2 friends visit, then make sure the rabbit is safe during the visit.

What You Can Do with Different Ages

Sitting/Crawling Infants (6-12 months)

Start teaching the idea that the rabbit is to be respected and treated carefully.

BUNNY-RULE #l: Gentle petting.

Sit on the floor with child in your lap while you pet and talk to the rabbit. Guide her hand over the rabbit’s head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold her hand flat or use the back of her hand. Do this frequently but no longer than 5 mins. at a time.

BUNNY-RULE #2: Leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes in his cage.

Interpret rabbit’s body language for the child ( you can say.. "Oops, he didn’t want anymore petting. He wants to eat or take a nap.) Prevent the tendencies to chase a rabbit who has had enough and to bang/poke on the cage by explaining: “Chasing him will make him scared of you.” or “Banging on his house scares him.” Watch your child carefully and make such explanations at the moment before it looks like the child may engage in such behaviors. Explaining, then redirecting the child’s attention works best for this age when inappropriate behavior seems imminent or occurs.

BUNNY-RULE #3: Don’t touch droppings and litter.

Teach the child that the litterbox and droppings that may be found on floor are “dirt”. You may have no problem with picking up the dry droppings with your hand, but you don’t stick your fingers in your mouth! You may have to change your habits for awhile to teach this concept. A box with a cage floor wire grate works well.

Toddlers (1-2 yrs.)

Continue reinforcing or teach BUNNY-RULES 1-3 and add #4. Although unintentional, toddlers are capable of doing real harm to a rabbit. They will need constant supervision and frequent gentle reminders of appropriate behavior. See below for additional notes on rules.

Due to still-developing muscle coordination, toddlers have a hard time keeping fingers out of rabbits’ eyes so you may have to insist on two-finger petting or back-of-hand petting.

Closely supervise children’s interactions with the rabbit. This is the stage of the child’s development when some are prone to bash things with sticks. Children this age also have a hard time not chasing a rabbit who hops away. If she chases the rabbit, the rabbit will learn to be scared of her. Teach respect for the rabbit ending the petting or playing session (‘Well, that’s all he wanted to do.”) and interest the child in another activity.

Children who are interested in toilet-training can understand “that is where the bunny poops and pees”.

BUNNY RULE #4:We pet, but don’t pick up the rabbit.

Explain that it scares the rabbit to be picked up and both of you could get hurt. Explain that Mom or Dad may pick up the rabbit if she needs care. Explain rabbit language & actions: “Hear her teeth clicking? She likes the petting. See her toss the ball? She’s playing.” If child gets scratched, explain what the child did to scare or hurt the rabbit and show a better way to act. Redirect loud play to another area (“Look at bunny. She doesn’t like the noise.”)

Toddlers love to share their snacks with the rabbit so make sure rabbit gets only small amounts proper foods and is not overloaded with cereals and crackers. They also love to help with feeding – scooping & pouring food, taking vegetables and hay to rabbit.

One to Seven-Year Olds

If a 2-yr old has grown up with a rabbit, she can have quite a bit of empathy for and knowledge about a rabbit. Continue or teach BUNNY-RULES #1 through 4. Teach by example instead of by a lot of “No’s”; Your child will learn most by watching you. If interested, the child may help with feeding and play with the rabbit with your supervision.

Older Children

Continue or teach BUNNY-RULES #1 through 4. Teach by example and setting up situations for success. Your child may build a friendship with the rabbit by sitting on the floor with the rabbit while doing homework, art work, reading, or watching t.v. The rabbit will eventually come to investigate and to be petted. Older children have lots of other interests and interest in rabbit may come and go. The rabbit’s care should continue to be your responsibility, but your child may help with feeding and grooming.

Choosing a Rabbit

Rabbits have different personalities so it is difficult to make generalizations about breeds. In general though, a medium to large breed adult rabbit is usually better for a child. They will command the most respect from a child and are easier to pet because they have larger heads. Dwarf breeds tend to be more excitable, energetic, and aggressive. Baby rabbits are very active, often nippy, and chew everything in sight. Adult rabbits are more easily litter-and house-trained, especially after spaying or neutering. You will also have a better idea of a rabbits personality if you choose an adult who is spayed or neutered.

Adopt a rabbit from a rescue group or local shelters. There are many advantages and you will be helping to combat rabbit overpopulation. Animal shelters euthanize hundreds of unwanted rabbits each year, many less than a year old. Many more die agonizing deaths from neglect and abandonment without ever reaching a shelter. You will be giving one of the many unwanted rabbits a second chance for a loving home while discouraging those who breed rabbits for profit.

Teaching Responsibility: Something to Think About

Many parents say they want to get a rabbit for their child to teach the child some responsibility. What usually happens is that the child loses interest (not to mention being incapable of sticking to a routine and providing proper care), and the rabbit suffers. The child, at best, learns to feel bad that she has failed and caused suffering. At worst, she learns to resent the animal for the nagging that she is hearing from the adult. Often, the rabbit is given away because “you didn’t take care of it”. The child learns that life is disposable and that if she waits long enough, someone else will relieve her of her “responsibility’.

So, let your child help with the rabbit, but don’t insist. If the child appears interested, encourage her; if she becomes bored, let her move on to the next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. She learns most of all from watching you-your actions, your tone of voice when you speak to the rabbit, and your attitude. From this she learns the nurturing (responsible) point of view- the patient waiting, the faithful caring, the joyful appreciation and acceptance of a living creature for who it is, not who you wish it to be.

Next we have my review of the hamster ball. Enjoy!

Review of SuperPet RunABout Hamster Ball

My dwarf hamster Mickey enjoys running in his hamster ball. Hamsters sometimes get very frightened if they are put in a round sphere, but he doesn't mind it, occasionally stopping and looking around instead of digging at the sides to try to get out, which is mistaken by hamster owners as the hamster running around in glee. I purchased the hamster ball a few months ago, and was interested because it is a glow in the dark version. I am sure children get a kick out of this part, but I don't really think the average hamster owner lets her/his hamster run around in the dark, which is what this requires. Anyway, this is what the ball looks like.

This is a dwarf hamster size, but it looks like it comes in larger sizes too.

The cap that goes on the ball is softer plastic and therefore easier to break, and when I accidentally dropped the cap on the floor it confirmed this. 

Otherwhise, the ball is pretty good in shape and the crack did not pose any danger to the times when I put Mickey in the ball - meaning, it did not get loose or open up once. 

There are good-sized slits in the hamster ball, but the hamster claws and legs did not get stuck in here once. My other hamster ball had to be disposed of because of this problem - the holes were big enough for his legs to become trapped and he could not enjoy the hamster ball time.

Here is my hamster in the ball. He had a very easy time rolling around, and the ball has great lightweight plastic that makes for easy rolling. 

As for the glowing part, I was a little disappointed. In dim light, it did not glow.

I think the whole reason people buy this particular hamster ball instead of the plain kind is because of the whole "Glow in the dark" thing, but you really must leave it under bright light all day to "charge" it, then make sure it is completely pitch black in order to see the glow effect. Even then, it barely shows up. 

Plus, it could be frightening to an animal inside a glowing ball because he could not see the outside part and he could be a bit upset and scared. So while this is isn't really a hit with the glowing thing, the hamster ball is still very good quality and nice for hamsters. 

Guinea Pig Housing

Most cages marketed for guinea pigs are way too small. Learn how to provide your pig with appropriate room to roam.

Why size matters

Guinea pigs are one of the largest rodents kept as pets and yet their typical cage is only marginally roomier than housing for much smaller pets like hamsters and gerbils. Most guinea pig cages on the market are the same size as the commercial "rabbit cages"(which by the way, are Wayyyyy too small for rabbits. Read our posts about rabbit housing and pens for more info) but have

a platform or two molded in plastic.

These pictures here are common examples and should be avoided.

While small animal cages often utilize vertical space to increase living area and encourage climbing, digging and burrowing, guinea pigs rely on floor space. 

Ramps and platforms at low heights provide variety, but guinea pigs need room to exercise, even with daily playtime outside of the cage. 

Also, our piggie friends are not tunneling creatures like hamsters and therefore cannot climb vertical tube systems, loops and loops of tall climbing stimulation and plastic to mimic the elaborate underground tunnels of hamsters and gerbils in the wild. 

Below are some more photos of faulty cages..

This cage is also wayyyyy too small!

For many years, the industry standard has been approximately 2 square feet per guinea pig, but this provides barely enough room for a nest, bathroom area, and food and water. GuineaPigCages.com, a well-respected website for guinea pig owners refers to this cage size as "a glorified litter box."

The website, created by Cavy Spirit Rescue, offers the following guidelines for the ratio of guinea pigs to their cage size:

One guinea pig:  7.5 square feet cage (minimum), but more is better; generally 30" x 36" is a good size.
Two guinea pigs:  7.5 square feet (minimum), but 10.5 square feet is preferred; generally 30" x 50" is a good size.
Three guinea pigs: 10.5 square feet (minimum), but 13 square feet is preferred; generally 30" x 62" is a good size.
Four guinea pigs: 13 square feet (minimum), but more is better; generally 30" x 76" is a good size.

An airy, large, amazing guinea pig cage that is a picture of perfect!

Benefits to your guinea pig

Roomier cages offer many advantages that will be enjoyed by both you and your pig:

• Larger cages are one of the most basic types of enrichment you can provide. Guinea pigs can live 5-7 years and can become bored and depressed without adequate stimulation. Imagine spending your whole life in a walk-in closet. Even with occasional breaks, life would be pretty dreary.
• Adequate room to exercise means that your guinea pigs are less likely to develop medical conditions such as heart disease, diabetes, bumblefoot, and anal impaction.
• With a roomier enclosure, guinea pigs can exercise on their schedule, not yours. Guinea pigs tend to be most active in the morning and evening when it may not be convenient to take them out for playtime.
• Larger digs increase the likelihood of peaceful co-existence among multiple guinea pigs (and since guinea pigs are social animals, they do best when housed together).
• Larger cages are actually easier to clean because they prevent the build-up of waste and allow guinea pigs to separate their bathroom area from other activities.
• With the opportunity to express a wider range of natural behaviors, your guinea pigs will be happier and it will be easier to get to know their personalities.

Some other benefits..Courtesy of GuineaPigCages.com

 

Benefits of MORE SPACE

 Exercise in General

The health benefit of exercise for guinea pigs is significant. Like humans, overweight guinea pigs have a higher tendency toward health problems, including heart disease, diabetes, bladder infections, respiratory problems, bumblefoot, and more.

Adult males can develop a condition called impaction -- a loss of muscle tone in the anal area, causing their droppings to get 'backed up' and require periodic cleaning by their guardians. A large cage with ample room for exercise can help keep your guinea pig toned and fit.

Adult females tend to put on weight in their belly as they get older. It's more difficult to find and diagnose ovarian cysts and other related problems in females when they are overweight.

 Exercise on Their Schedule

Not yours. Even if you provide an ample amount of floor time every day, your guinea pigs need to be able to exercise and explore on their own body clocks. Guinea pig activity tends to be an hour "on" and an hour "off." Many are particularly active in the morning and evening -- not necessarily at times that are convenient for you. If they have a large enough cage, they can exercise whenever they choose.

 Stimulation

Like people, guinea pigs get bored living in the same old small cage hour after hour, day after day, year after year with nothing much to do. It would be like 'being sent to your room' forever, only your room is the size of a walk-in closet and that becomes your life. You have to entertain yourself, eat, sleep, and 'go to the bathroom' all in that small space -- until you die. Even if you are hauled out and allowed to 'play' with some other species periodically, it's a mind-numbing, dreary existence.

 Keeping the Peace

If you have two or more non-breeding or same-sex guinea pigs (as you should, since they are social animals), it helps keep them happy with each other if they have enough room to run and play and to get away from each other when they choose.

 Easier to Clean

Believe it or not, a larger cage is much easier to clean and keep clean than the smaller pet store or commercial cages. You can read other people's experiences in the Testimonials and find out more about how to clean the cage on the cleaning page. And an easier to clean cage for you means you'll love your guinea pigs that much more over the years.

 More Fun for You

Happy guinea pigs are more entertaining and well-adjusted guinea pigs. Healthy guinea pigs means fewer vet visits, worries, and bills. Easy-to-maintain guinea pigs means a happier relationship with your animals. You'll spend less time cleaning and more time enjoying them and your life, especially knowing they are doing so well and you are doing the right thing by them.

Bed time

Though widely sold as appropriate bedding for small animals, cedar and pine shavings are NOT recommended due to chemicals which they both contain. Instead, buy bedding made from paper.  Provide enough bedding so that it is between 2-3 inches deep, so that absorption is maximized. Also make sure you have an area for a guinea pig igloo or grass hut for the cavies to sleep in since piggies like covered sleeping quarters.

Location is key

Once you've selected the right housing for your guinea pigs, you’ll need to determine where in your home they will live. Here are some factors to consider:

Temperature: The ideal temperature range for guinea pigs is approximately 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Guinea pig housing should be located away from strong heat sources such as direct sun, wood stoves, fireplaces and heating vents. Guinea pigs cannot sweat when they become too warm and are particularly susceptible to heat stroke.

Don't put your guinea pig’s cage in an unheated room, breezeway, garage or other chilly location. Place the cages in a draft-free area (e.g. away from doors and windows and on an elevated surface). 

Guinea pigs don’t do well under humid conditions. Dampness promotes the growth of mold in their hay and bedding and can make guinea pigs more prone to sickness.

This cage is placed by a hot fireplace, and this is not an ideal place to put a guinea pig cage.

Activity level: Guinea pigs enjoy being near family activity and benefit from more attention when they’re easy to see and hear. A family room or living room works well, but make sure your pigs have a place to retreat if they need some quiet time.

Noise: Guinea pigs have very sensitive hearing and their cages should not be placed next to stereos, televisions or other loud noises.

Reasons to avoid the great outdoors

An outdoor hutch was once considered acceptable housing for guinea pigs. But keeping a pet outside robs them of regular interaction with the family. Out of sight, out of mind. But we've come a long way from this thinking, in part because the disadvantages for guinea pigs are so clear.

• Outdoor guinea pigs suffer extremes of weather and temperature
• Outdoor guinea pigs are at risk from predators such as hawks and foxes
• Hutches, which are usually made of wood, can be more difficult to clean and disinfect
• A guinea pig's health often deteriorates quickly once she becomes sick, and illnesses may go undetected without regular handling.

The wind has knocked over this small guinea pig hutch.

And this cage here is another example of why guinea pigs should not be housed outdoors. The fox is a common predator to cavies that live outdoors, as well as rabbits.