Good & Bad Foods For Rats...Submitted by AMJ from Rat Forum

This was contributed by AMJ from 

What is good for your rats to eat

Essentially, if it is ok for you to eat, then it is generally ok for the rats to eat. To make a comprehensive list of everything a rat could eat would take forever. So here is a list of particularly healthy things for your rat:

Fruits
Apples
Apricots
Bananas - but not green bananas
Blueberries - All around good for rats (Just be careful they don't stain anything you don't want stained with juice) (Submitted by Mana)
Grapes - purple grapes are believed to help prevent cancer
Rasberries
Blackberries
Boysenberries
Peaches - without the pit
Cranberries (and cranberry juice)
Plums - excluding the stone
Pomegranates
Pears
Kiwi
Papaya

Vegetables
Broccoli
Carrots
Cucumbers
Peas - Especially frozen for those hot summer days (Submitted by Forensic)
Romaine lettuce - It is recommended to avoid iceberg lettuce as it has little nutritional value
Kale
Green beans - cooked
Corn (on the cob, frozen, or from a can)
Green, red, or yellow peppers (not spicy!)
Pumpkin - and the seeds (in moderation)
Cauliflower
Butternut Squash - cooked
cooked mushrooms - in moderation

Miscellaneous/Treats
Chicken bones - Make sure these aren't too greasy or fatty
Crickets - Apparently, rats will eat these? I've never done it, I don't need crickets running around in my room. Good for protein
Dog biscuits - ratnutrition.com recommends 'Grreat Choice Healthy Treats'
Hard-boiled eggs - I've heard these are good for pregnant rats who need the extra protein/fat. However, these should not become a regular part of the diet but rather just a treat for regular rats.
Popcorn - Unsalted and unbuttered
Yogurt drops - Rats love these. At least, mine do.
Yogurt - a small amount of probiotic yogurt is good for gut flora
Cheese - small amount in moderation, preferably soy based


What your rats should never eat
Fruit

Apple seeds - Apple seeds contain a small amount of cyanide which could be harmful to your rat. (Original post by Nightfallspy)
Green bananas - Inhibit starch digestion
Mango - Contains d-limonene which can cause kidney cancer in male rats (Thank you Darksong17!)
Oranges - The white part on the peelings and outer layer of a peeled orange is harmful to male rats. It seems to be ok for females, but I just stay away from citrus fruits in general.
Orange juice - Contains d-limonene which can cause kidney cancer in male rats

Vegetables
Raw brussel sprouts - Fine after cooking, though
Green potato skin and eyes - I will not eat them and I will not eat green potato skin and eyes 
Raw artichokes - Inhibit protein digestion
Raw onion - Can lead to anemia and an upset stomach
Raw red cabbage - Fine after cooking
Raw sweet potato - Once again, fine after cooking
Rhubarb - High levels of oxalates which bind up calcium

Miscellaneous
Blue cheese - Contains a toxic mold
Cuddle Bones (for Birds) - The general consensus was that these have far too much calcium to be healthy for your rat, steer clear. (Original post by sneakers8
Licorice - Contains a suspected neurotoxin
Poppyseeds - One member's rat got into these and then began to act very lethargic. The rat seemed better for a while, but unfortunately the situation deteriorated and the rat had to be put to sleep. (Original post by rainbowstar)
Rat poison - Believe it or not, this is just not good for rats
Raw bulk tofu - Packaged tofu is ok for eating
*Raw* dry beans or peanuts - Peanuts you buy in a store are almost always roasted so they are fine for rats. Beans will need to be cooked first before giving to rats. If you're growing your own peanuts then I would not serve those to your rats.
Raw hide - Difficult to digest (Original post by hydra)
Sweet feed (For horses) - There's just too much corn and molasses in this. (Original post by Krickette) 
Wild insects - Well I guess these are ok cooked?

It is also a good idea to consult the Poisonous Plants for Small Pets list.

What your rats should eat in moderation or with caution
All of the following should be given in moderation. Some can be very dangerous to your rat if given too much. Personally, I would recommend just not giving your rat any of these (With the exception of chocolate, which is fine in small amounts).

Avocados - Very fatty. Also, the pit, rind, skin, and leaves of the avocado are toxic. Avoid any part of the avocado that even touches those parts. Good for sick rats needing to gain weight though
Bread - Bread can expand in a rat's throat, causing them to choke. If giving your rat bread, toast it first or give them very small amounts at a time.
Carbonated drinks - Though I doubt your rat will explode, it could give them a stomach ache as they have a hard time getting rid of the carbonation.
Chocolate - Supposed to help with minor respiratory distress. Too much can be problematic. Avoid milk chocolate but rather go for dark or bittersweet chocolate as milk chocolate contains too much fat and some rats are lactose intolerant (Thanks Mana!)
Dried corn - Contains fungal contaminates which could lead to liver cancer (Fresh corn is ok)
Oranges - The white part on the peelings and outer layer of a peeled orange is harmful to male rats. It seems to be ok for females, but I just stay away from citrus fruits in general.
Peanut butter - Could cause your rat to choke

Things people have asked if it's ok for your rat to eat

The following is just a list of some of the strange items people have asked about and whether or not they are ok to eat.

Fine to eat
Canned oysters - Canned oysters should be fine and nutritious for your rats (As a treat), but I would recommend steering clear of any other form of oysters. (Original post by rightin2)
Celery - Fine, but not much nutritional value (Original post by kkdepp)
Mealworms - Perfectly fine for your rat and good source of protein. Fine alive or dead (Original post by Chthonicfox)
Meat - Chicken is always best, but they can eat any kind of cooked meat. Try to keep the fat down. (Original post by x.xgemax.x and Sky14)
Pineapple - Should be fine, in moderation of course. Have you ever eaten too much pineapple? Because I have and it hurts. (Original post by toxic_tears1990)
Popsicles - These are ok for rats, but watch out for high sugar content. A better idea is to freeze your own ice cubes or low-sugar concoctions to keep your rats cool. (Original post by camel24j)
Spaghetti - Seems to be ok cooked and uncooked. (Original post by renay)

Should never eat (Repeated in above section for rat's safety)
Apple seeds - Apple seeds contain a small amount of cyanide which could be harmful to your rat. (Original post by Nightfallspy)
Cuddle Bones (for Birds) - The general consensus was that these have far too much calcium to be healthy for your rat, steer clear. (Original post by sneakers8
Poppyseeds - One member's rat got into these and then began to act very lethargic. The rat seemed better for a while, but unfortunately the situation deteriorated and the rat had to be put to sleep. (Original post by rainbowstar)
Raw hide - Difficult to digest (Original post by hydra)
Sweet feed (For horses) - There's just too much corn and molasses in this. (Original post by Krickette) 

Undecided (Best to avoid for now)
Mint/Menthol/Candy Canes - It is currently unknown as to whether or not this may be harmful to your rat. Best to avoid for now. (Original post by zimmyzam)
Peppers - Though the non-spicy portion of the pepper is fine, you may want to avoid these as you'll never know if some of the spiciness got on the non-spicy portion, which could be very upsetting to a ratty. (Original post by glindella)

Staple Diet
MopyDream has made a fantastic post on the top three best hard foods for your rat, and so I will just quote it exactly here.
Quote from: "MopyDream44"
Name: Harlan Teklad
Pros: Harlan Teklad is the top brand that is specifically made for rats. It has the best overall nutrition for your rats.
Cons: It is not sold in most pet stores, and it has a shelf life of approx. 6 months if frozen.
Purchase Information: you can buy it directly from teklad.com with a min purchace of 100$. You can buy it in smaller portions at Kim's Ark, theratshop.com, ratzrealm.com, or craftyrat.com

Name: Nutro Natural Choice Lite
Pros: It contains similar nutritional values to H. Teklad, and it is easily found in chain pet stores.
Cons: it is made for dogs rather than rats. It must be fed with a grain mix, which is an additional expense but the ratties love it Wink
Purchase Information: it is found in pet stores such as Petco and Petsmart

Name: Mazuri
Pros: actually made for rodents
Cons: the protein % is a bit higher than the recommended %
Purchase Information: found at pet store chains. 


I used to say Harlan Teklad was the best choice for rats, but Darksong17 has turned me around and I now recommend Oxbow Regal Rat if your rats will eat it. Please read more about it in Appendix 1 below.

If you are unable to get Regal Rat then Harlan Teklad is definitely the best choice, but if you can't get that go for Innova Senior or Nutro Natural Choice Lite.

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February - Adopt a rescued rabbit month!

Hey everyone! Did you hear? February is Adopt a Rescued Rabbit Month!

If you’ve done your homework and determined that you and your family are ready to welcome a rabbit into your home, then consider adoption!

Rabbit rescues and animal shelters are continually overrun with homeless rabbits. There are bunnies of all ages, shapes, and sizes just waiting for their forever homes. A shelter volunteer can help match you up with just the right bunny (or pair of bonded bunnies).

Plus, adopting a rabbit from a rescue or shelter doesn’t just benefit the bunny.  Many rescues litter train the rabbits in their care and acclimate them (if needed) to living inside the home.  Further, if the rabbits are mature enough, most rescues will have the rabbits neutered/spayed. This will save you money on vet bills for the procedure.

To find out more reasons to adopt a rabbit from a shelter as opposed to purchasing one from a breeder or pet store, see this article, “Benefits of Adopting a Pet Rabbit.”

If you’re ready to find a bunny in your area, you can start with PetFinder or you can check out the House Rabbit Society website for links to all of their regional chapters.

Some Things To Consider When Adopting Older Cavies

This was submitted by Michiko Vartanian  from the website Guinea Pig Today. Thanks! Submit ideas, suggestions, and posts in our "submission' gadget on the right side of Critter Corner's site. We love to get submissions from our readers!

Of the many considerations that go into choosing the right pet for a family, life span is certainly right near the top of the list. And, while guinea pigs have many wonderful qualities that make them a great choice for a family pet, their average 5-7 year life span gives some people reason to pause. Many people (and probably everyone reading this article) consider their pets to be a member of the family. Our love for our guinea pigs, while possibly different than our love for a human member of our family, is no less strong, and our attachment no less important. So adopting an animal who will be considered a “senior” after just a few short years has its definite drawbacks in the sense that we know going in that we will be having to say goodbye way too soon.

I adopted my first guinea pig, Ethan, when he was almost four years old, and his cagemate, Hobbes, was just over a year old. My adoption counselor at Orange County Cavy Haven made sure that I understood his age and that I really meant to adopt that particular pig. I responded to this email immediately and in no uncertain terms – I wanted Ethan, yes, that pig. The thing is, as I looked through the adoptable pigs on the website, his face just jumped out at me. I fell in love with his picture, and then proceeded to fall in love with the real thing as soon as I held him. Unfortunately, Ethan was only with me for a year and a half (although his “brother,” Hobbes, is still as feisty as ever at five and a half years old now). Of course, I would have loved to have him longer – he was the perfect first guinea pig with a huge personality and he hooked me for life – but I take so much comfort in the life I was able to give Ethan for the time he was with me. He was able to free roam, which he loved. I showered him with treats, toys, and affection. What more could any piggy want?

Then there was Alfredo. Alfredo had been a “sanctuary” pig with the rescue and had many different foster moms along the way. He came to me at nine years old. I was actually just supposed to baby-sit him for a week, but I fell so in love with him and was able to convince his foster mom that he should stay with me because I lived only a block away from the cavy vet and, with his age, that was a major consideration. Alfredo lived with me for only a year, but he was able to free roam and he just loved having so much freedom and a younger boar friend whom he could “show the ropes” to. Because of his advanced age, I had to give him meds for arthritis and for his heart every day, and I had to do boar cleanings on him more often to avoid impaction, but this only made me bond with him more.

There is something so wonderful about taking in an older guinea pig and making those last years of his life special, giving him a place to call home. At Cavy Haven, it is very rare that someone wants to adopt a pig older than one and a half or two years old. This means that many of our pigs live out their lives as fosters. And, although our fosters take very good care of their foster pigs, it often makes me sad to see older pigs – who have so much love and joy to bring to a family – get passed over time and time again.

I hope that anyone considering adopting their next family member, will take a closer look at the older pigs. After all, there is no guarantee with any pig that we get to love them for anything more than just today. And I think you will find that giving an older pig a forever home and a family brings with it so much joy that you won’t regret your decision.

Traveling with Your Guinea Pig

Recent surveys show that most pet owners consider their pet as part of the family. Along with this trend, cavies are traveling more with their owners than ever before. Before your vehicle leaves the driveway, here are a few tips that will make the trip safe for both you and your guinea pigs. Whether you are bringing your guinea pigs for a lengthy stay at the beach house or holiday cabin, remember that changes can be stressful for them. We personally don’t recommend traveling more than two hours with your guinea pigs unless absolutely necessary. Many rescues won’t let you adopt a cavy from them if you live outside of this range. The most common reason for travel is to see the veterinarian. In many areas you may be required to travel an hour or more to find a qualified exotic vet to give your guinea pigs the proper care. For this reason alone, it’s best to be prepared for your guinea pigs’ trip in the car. Allowing your cavies to simply rest on a seat in your vehicle is extremely dangerous; they will naturally want to explore. Not only can this be distracting to the driver, it can leave your pets vulnerable if you were to hit the brakes unexpectedly or happened to be in an auto accident. Just like children, your pets should be restrained in the back seat where they are safe from the dashboard air bag. Even on a short trip, it’s best to plan for the worst so you can both travel in safety and comfort. Another similar danger is to allow your pets to travel in a cage. It might seem kind on a trip to give them space to roam during your travel time, but your pets could be thrown around and seriously injured. If you must travel with a small cage, make sure the cage is properly secured. Do not use any heavy objects inside like a wooden house. Soft cozies and tunnels are a better option. Line the cage with blankets or towels instead of particle bedding. The best option for your guinea pigs is a well-ventilated pet carrier. Small cat carriers are often better options than most small pet carriers sold at pet stores which your guinea pigs can quickly outgrow. If your pets are new to a carrier, purchase it ahead of your trip and allow them to explore it and freely walk in and out. During the trip, make sure it is placed in an area of your vehicle that is not crowded so your guinea pigs get plenty of fresh air but not wind or direct sun. Line the carrier with blankets or towels. Secure the carrier to prevent it from being thrown. Never put any pet in the open bed of a pickup truck. “The best option for your guinea pigs is a well-ventilated pet carrier… During the trip, make sure it is placed in an area of your vehicle that is not crowded so your guinea pigs get plenty of fresh air but not wind or direct sun.” Do not leave your guinea pig unattended in the vehicle. The temperature and humidity in the car can change quickly and dramatically once you are gone; this risks serious, often fatal, health problems for your pet. In addition, pet owners can be prosecuted under anti-cruelty statutes that specifically forbid leaving a pet alone in a parked vehicle. Guinea pigs are most comfortable in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees with approximately 50% humidity. Your guinea pigs can easily develop a respiratory infection if the environment is too extreme or constantly changing so try to keep the vehicle feeling comfortable and consistent for the length of your trip. If you are forced to take a longer drive, plan to take breaks where you can clean up after and visit with your pigs. It can be dangerous for your pets to eat while moving. Even when still, guinea pigs are known for choking on small pieces of food. On a longer trip, make regular stops so your pets may eat and drink. Remove any uneaten food before you continue your trip. Clean up any urine and bring extra blankets and towels to swap out the bedding so your guinea pigs are not lying in wetness. We often use puppy pee pads under the blankets when traveling. It’s convenient to pack an empty plastic bag to store the wet blankets and towels in. One topic to which you need to give serious thought is whether it’s best to travel with your guinea pigs together or separate. While it might be safer for them to each have their own carrier, it will be less stressful for them to be in the situation together. Often it depends on your situation and the personality of the pigs. If you find traveling with your guinea pigs might not be in your pets’ best interest there are options. Many local rescues offer a pet-sitting service with qualified caregivers for the price of a donation. Also check with your vet to see if they offer exotic pet housing. Another option is to look for a pet-sitter in your area but be certain they know how to properly care for your guinea pigs and have a contingency plan in place for emergencies. Some guinea pig owners find it’s best for them to teach a trusted family member, friend, or neighbor how to care for their pigs and let the pigs visit their home for a short time. Your guinea pigs may even enjoy being spoiled by a visit to grandma’s house. Whatever you decide, it’s best to take your guinea pigs to visit your vet before a lengthy stay away from home. A qualified exotic vet may be difficult to find at your destination. Travel with a copy of your pets’ health records. In the event of an emergency, it can be a matter or life or death. Always make sure that your pet-sitter has a copy of your pets’ medical records. With proper planning, you and your guinea pigs can travel in comfort and safety.

Hedgehog Basics: Daily Care

You will need to attend to your hedgehog's needs on a daily basis. 

Here are some basic suggestions:

DAILY:

Scoop the litter box
Fill the food dish
Provide fresh water
Make sure any mess such as spilled food etc. is cleaned out of the shavings
Clean off any messy toys
Love your pet

WEEKLY:

Clean the cage and put fresh, clean shavings on the floor. Soap and water will clean most items, but if you use any chemicals, be sure to rinse the cleaned items thoroughly. Be sure to wash the water bottle inside and out.

Rabbit-Proofing

What does rabbit proofing involve?

Rabbit Proofing one’s home involves three things: 1) Preventing destruction of your property; 2) Protecting your companion rabbit(s) from harm; and 3) Providing safe and fun chewing alternatives for your rabbit.

Why is rabbit proofing your home so important?

Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow.

So how do I keep electrical cords out of reach?

Spiral cable wrap Radio Shack sells something called “spiral cable wrap”. It costs about $3 for 10 feet and works like a charm for most, but not every bunny. (Some still manage to chew through it.)
This stuff is very flexible so the cords are still manageable after wrapping. It works well with cords that you might have in the middle of the room or might move quite often, such as vacuum cleaner, phone, video game, extension, lamp and other cords. I keep my portable computer cord wrapped this way, and it’s not too bulky. 

Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with “swamp coolers”) from a hardware or aquarium store can be slit lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available.

Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more permanent, and rabbit proof, as well.

Of course, Wires can be run behind or above furniture and carpets, but do NOT run your wires under carpets, as this can create a serious fire risk.

How do I keep my rabbit from eating house plants?

Many house plants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away. Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues of House Rabbit Journal.

How do I protect baseboards and wooden furniture?

If a rabbit insists on chewing baseboards, edges of chairs, etc., a board can be put over the places of temptation, making them inaccessible while also providing an acceptable chewing surface. This method should be combined with training your rabbit not to chew on these items.

How do I protect upholstered furniture and beds?

Upholstered furniture and beds that are several inches off the ground are wonderful places for rabbits to hide underneath. However, some will burrow up into the soft underside and make a nest. A flat cardboard box or frame of 2x4s, smaller than the area of the future base, will keep the rabbit out, and won’t be seen from human level.

How do I protect walls?

Clear plastic panels from the hardware or plastic supply store can be affixed to the wall to protect against your rabbit chewing into the sheetrock or tearing off the wallpaper. Placing furniture over that spot can also conceal the damage and protect against further chewing.